**Shark bait in Tahiti**
Rattle can spray paint will work just fine for doing the distressed look.
Right on. I’ll post a picture of my mini simmons with this look when I’m done. Should be a fun experiment haha.
Have fun but it would be a good idea to do a small test/practice panel with scrap foam and glass before proceeding on your real board. Be careful with the single edge razor blades too, they work great as scrapers but can slice the f out of you if you slip or let it roll in your fingers.
Thanks for the comments guys!
Hofnar, You have some crazy SH1T on your instagram! Hows that venturi go??!!
Im making a short stubby little board and I just want it to be different. Its for myself.
MikeDaniel, Im almost thinking that board had a dark gray or black resin tint in the laminating resin, then white was either hotcoated or “rattlecan sprayed” over that, which is why the dark comes through where the cloth doubles up on the laps (top board). I think the can might be easier to control than a colour hotcoat, and that you will get to different finishes for sure. The bottom Pic looks like some colour was over that (blue and yellow) before the gloss coat… Splitting hairs now, but thanks for the insight… Making sense in my head now.
A lot of work yes. and I guess quite easy to mess up. and here in sunny South Africa a black board heats up and will have your wax on the floor in 30 seconds if you’re not paying attention.
I’ll see if I can locate the ‘P.O.P’ boardS , photos of jeff ho , on the internet…
…featured in both the early 1970s Surfer mags , and ALSO in the ‘dogtown / z-boys’ movie…'Zephyr Surfboards ’ , eh …
…mostly airbrushed , I’m guessing ?
but there ‘may’ have been glitter addded , as well as pigments and / or tints too , maybe ??? who knows … herb ???
Thats not a good looking board. If your going to take the time to do some color ,do it right,show some class,if you have bad taste, get a job at a SUP factory
Laughing at the arrival of the ‘distressed’ look. I first saw it on sailboards around 10 years ago, it wasn’t the result of trying to achieve a certain look, it the was result of a functional requirment.
In seeking strength and lightness some very expensive sandwich boards were carbon fibre, sprayed white to stop them overheating, and sanded back to save weight, so you got the mottled affect and only just enough white to keep the heat down. The ‘look’ was further enhanced by using little or no filler on the deck so the weave showed through, plus a bit of green from the kevlar cloth.
This is not to say I don’t like the look, I do, even though it is merely decorative rather than functional,
Dave
Here’s a few pics from my Instagram plus a couple more that I haven’t loaded up yet…
The first is an epoxy alaia vac bagged with 12 oz bi-axial cloth. This one has three colors going on. Its tough to see and that’s where I figured out I needed to use a clear coat between colors.
On the second one, I wanted to cover a pube that had somehow gotten under the glass. … (having too much fun with my work, i guess?)
The third is an epoxy Stand up Boogie board I made for my son. I threw it on this thread because of the “Low Rider” metal flake I have going on in the rails. I kept it on the rails only for the whole predatory fish thing that was mentioned above. It’s important to use automotive metal flake and not just glitter, you’ll get a way better result. Mix it in the hot coat, then puor on the board immediately, before it has time to settle. Then put as many clear coats of epoxy on it so you don’t sand through. The color on the bottom of the board is a resin Tie dye. I laid the cloth on a flat surface, twisted it in a swirl, then shot the various colored resins on the swirl, unwrapped it and laid it on the board… It was a huge pain in the ass and I will never do it again. I think it looks like a dress an old lady would wear to church on the bottom and super clean on the top. Really fun to bring this one to the beach.
The third is a grom board I did for my little brother. I gutted it out with a single concave and sdded the side cuts like the Hayden Shapes “Merlot” the board came out great and my spoiled little shit of a brother will never have a clue of how much work and love went into this thing.
The wide Orange, Green, and Black thing has the sand through, then I mixed graphite powder in with the resin to get the black splattered effect, then hot coated. I’m taking this one to Mexico for a few months this winter and can’t wait to see how she goes.
I look up to alot of you on this site, so go easy on me with the comments, except for Ghetto Rat, please tear me a new one, it would be an honor!
thanks.
I do wood grain painrting on boards… Usually it’s old beaters that I make in to wall art. Could also be done on a new board.
**Cleanlines, doin' the same thing "faux wood" wall hangers. Have you tryed glassing over? At a point here of experimenting with clear glazing and gettin' some shine. **
**Aloha.**
thanks hofnar
wow , " Cleanlines " ! [ ? Roger Br ?]
THAT … is BEAUTIFUL !!
I probably won’t get anywhere near as good a result as that , but I think I might have to try that on a fin panel , at some stage .
… thanks HEAPS , for the inspiration !
[I’m thinking …use two or three different brown pigments / tints , and a bit of yellow tint , too…close ?]
cheers !
ben
I use furniture products (in my real life I restore antiques and paint furniture). On these beater recycled wall hangers I putty the dings and paint with yellow ochre. I do the graining with oil based vandyke brown glaze. I get it from the commercial Sherwin Williams store. After the graining is done I spray lacquer over the board in my spray booth. I have done a bunch of them and don’t spend a lot of time. I usually get around $250 if they come out good’
As for a rideable board I have done wood graining and glossed over it. It was basically the same but instead of lacquer I sprayed clear acrylic (ceramic tile sealer) over the glaze. Let it dry for 24 hours…scuff with red scotchbrite and gloss with Reichold gloss resin. Seems to work fine.
If I wanted to do an ultimate gloss wall hanger I would probably put a layer of four ounce over the acrylic and then hotcoat…sand…gloss…polish.
You cant do decent graining on foam. It has to be on the sanded hotcoat.
Go to utube and search “wood graining” or “fauxbois”. I saw a video of some Frenchies doing it and flipped out at how good they were. Have fun!!! R. B. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=wood%20graining%20techniques&sm=1
thanks very much for sharing that , Roger !
As I say , I will attempt a similar effect on a fin panel , at some stage … [might add the metallic copper fleck to it , too …]
cheers !
ben