Anybody have any insight on how to shape a stepdeck that isn’t destined to fail in a few sessions? I’ve heard the horror stories … snapped off or twisted noses … broken stringers … what about putting a patch of uni carbon in the nose to allow a ‘limited’ amount of flexion? Thicker stringer? Eliminate stringer in the nose completely and go with stronger laminate materials to make up for it? What can a person try that won’t ruin the step deck concept by making it too rigid?
I am about to start my noserider longboard I’ve had sitting around for a while, and I plan to put a step deck on it …just figured maybe some people have tried some of these things already and know how they work.
Used to make LOTS of “step decks” when I shaped for Eaton. We used mostly green or blue density Clark foam blanks{ I have been using some King Mac blanks that seem to flex a long way before they snap on my unofficial over the knee “bones snap test” might work pretty good for flex nose stuff.} with 2 6oz tops and single 6 oz bottoms. 3/8" stringers. Still see 20+ year old boards at the beach still in use. Did not notice any more breaking than a “regular” board. Just don’t go too crazy with it and you should be fine. For what its worth I don’t use em anymore.
You could shape it more like a DaCat model. The step was more of a scoop out with the rails retaining their full volume and the hump. This helped the DaCats from snapping.
I own 4 vintage Yater Spoons and none of them have any dramatic twist or show any sign of stress that might lead to a snap.
I guess it has to do with how drastic your step is.
I did a ‘scoop out’ as suggested and left meat in the rails. Now I must finish shaping the rest of the deck, then start the bottom … was gonna do nose channels but I think I’m going to go for a traditional concave instead. Thoughts? Maybe a bit of each? Can’t concave too much with that foam all taken off of the deck … it’ll be all the way through!
I think I’m going to put some unidirectional carbon or similar reinforcement in the nose … checking on some options … don’t want to defeat the purpose by stiffening it too much, but I don’t want a 2 piece board either
It’s very rare to see a step and a concave together. Do a search in the forums for step deck and you will see many examples and some great explanations.
A concave is for noseriding and a step deck is for weight reduction but can also make a decent noserider.
Don’t shape the step straight across the board (rail to rail) that could lead to a snaped nose. Try to think of it as a concave that is stretched out closer to the rails and tapering to nothing at the nose. Picture it as a “U” shape.
Ay Soulstice … thanks for the input … I already shaped the ‘staircase’ in … so I’m gonna leave it and reinforce it a little bit … deciding on what materials to use to keep some flexion but keep from getting a two piece board first time I step on the nose …
Anyways, I’m curious – does that Cheater II have nose channels or concaves, or how is the bottom designed? Is any belly in the nose preferable or would that work against the noseriding concept …
nose channels or concaves, or how is the bottom designed?
rolled bottom all the way around. rail line goes full up at the tail. super flat entry rocker.
Quote:
I already shaped the ‘staircase’ in … so I’m gonna leave it
there’s a reason you don’t see stepdecks with actual “steps”. some were a straight drop back in the day (90-degrees on the vertical), but even those are long since extinct – you can still find a few on walls, but never coming out of someone’s shaping bay. this is simply the way it should be done. and in case you forgot, your thread is titled “making a step deck to last” – you’re not on the right track, and if it were my board, i’d try and get on it while i still can. adding more glass at the steps won’t do a thing.
I’d be a little worried about the bruises you’re gonna get from those “steps”. As a novelty / wallhanger it will be cool. In the water, you’re going to find those steps with every part of your body
At the very least you are going to really have fun glassing that “step deck”, and the stress’s are going to be so high in those sq. off corners I will really be supprized it you even make it outside before it breaks. How long is the board and how far back from the nose is the steps, also how thick is the board in the area below the steps. Now with that said tell me please that this is just a joke, please.
Quote:
Ay Soulstice … thanks for the input … I already shaped the ‘staircase’ in … so I’m gonna leave it and reinforce it a little bit … deciding on what materials to use to keep some flexion but keep from getting a two piece board first time I step on the nose …
Anyways, I’m curious – does that Cheater II have nose channels or concaves, or how is the bottom designed? Is any belly in the nose preferable or would that work against the noseriding concept …
Actually I was thinking maybe the ‘stairs’ would help with the flex, kind of like an accordion you know
Well I have some time to think on it … I know a gradual step would be more ideal by all normal laws of physics … but if the stairs actually did work it sure would be hilarious
at that length, you could EASILY take it back to 42" and make a nice smooth transition.
and stepdecks (especially the Harbour Cheater) don’t REALLY flex much at all. the board has such a flat entry rocker, it doesn’t have all that much room to flex. it noserides like a dream, and comes around nice and easy with that rolled bottom and reduced swing weight. but as far as an actual “diving board” type of downward flex when you’re on the tip – although that is the “theory” – actual practice tends to yield a different result.
