I appreciate what Huie is saying, and the choice can be doing a sanded gloss versus a sanded hot coat only. To be honest, the hot coats that Hawk (Haakenson) does actually look like some people’s glosses.
They are ridiculously good compared to many people’s work.
The Channel Islands he does each week for Burton are sanded to 320 grit. The boards go thru a QC inspection before being released. If there are any lows, glass fiber (rare) or whatnot, they are filled with UV resin and blocked out to the surface. Same deal for my boards.
I was told by some one, that any grime on boards, that C.I. cleans them sparingly with acetone.
I do agree with the statement about porosity (pores) existing in sanded hotcoats, they do not want a sealer.
Mollusk and other accounts have never complained about the boards getting grimy.
When I was doing all my own glassing, I regularly finished them with acrylic both by spraying or swiping on a sealer then using a super soft pad that had scotch birte attached to it. The slow speed needed so as not to blow up the pad with a once over and the boards looked better (esp. darker colors) and felt ‘slippery’.
No appreciable weight gain even when placed on my scale… if I triple coated a real dark board, maybe an oz or two, if that.
The sealer is high grade, UV stabilized, flexible, durable, non yellowing.
But doing this stage is yet another part of production, no matter how little time it takes, as is glossing a sand coat then sanding that gloss coat.
Here’s some pic for the hell of it.
P.S. Actually the spray was so even, I debated whether to even scotch brite it or not.