What kind of boards did he ride? Can anyone describe the shape and characteristics of his boards. Did he ride a new board every month, or stick with the same board for a while? Did he actually ride a “da cat”, or did he just lend his name to the board?
What kind of boards did he ride? Can anyone describe the shape and > characteristics of his boards. Did he ride a new board every month, or > stick with the same board for a while? Did he actually ride a “da > cat”, or did he just lend his name to the board? he rode Velzy’s, Jacob’s,Yater’s and 'Cats.In the 70’s he had a Liddle or two and I believe some Robbie Dick’s.Beyond tha I am clueless, although Derek Hynd spoke of Dora recently riding a flat-rockered, bottom rolled board which interests me because that’s the type of set-up I ride.
Matt - You are right that at some point in the early-mid 70’s he rode a Robbie Dick shape from Natural Progression. The board I remember was a fairly typical short board of the time with pulled diamond tail, thick rails and beak nose. I only saw him riding it one afternoon at Malibu. I don’t mean to imply that I hung out with the guy or anything - he was just out surfing by himself and we were sitting together in the lineup. He was actually a gentleman and seemed agreeable to letting me have a few.
Matt - You are right that at some point in the early-mid 70’s he rode a > Robbie Dick shape from Natural Progression. The board I remember was a > fairly typical short board of the time with pulled diamond tail, thick > rails and beak nose. I only saw him riding it one afternoon at Malibu. I > don’t mean to imply that I hung out with the guy or anything - he was just > out surfing by himself and we were sitting together in the lineup. He was > actually a gentleman and seemed agreeable to letting me have a few. What I know about more recent times; in the mid to late '80s he got a few boards from Bill Shrosbee. That’s one of them out on the East Cape in “Surfers:The Movie.” Single fins. Thick and flat, square tails. When I had a long talk (for Dora) about his board at Jefferies in '97 he was riding a Bob “Ole” Olson single fin longboard. But not a “retro” single. He said it was the most expensive board he ever got because he flew all the way from South Africa to Maui to pick it up. Saw him draw the high line all the way from outside Supers through Impossibles, through Tubes on a wave a couple of feet overhead and pull out at the beginning of the Point. Point break high line trim by the man that defined point break surfing.
What I know about more recent times; in the mid to late '80s he got a few > boards from Bill Shrosbee. That’s one of them out on the East Cape in > “Surfers:The Movie.” Single fins. Thick and flat, square tails. > When I had a long talk (for Dora) about his board at Jefferies in ‘97 he > was riding a Bob “Ole” Olson single fin longboard. But not a > “retro” single. He said it was the most expensive board he ever > got because he flew all the way from South Africa to Maui to pick it up. > Saw him draw the high line all the way from outside Supers through > Impossibles, through Tubes on a wave a couple of feet overhead and pull > out at the beginning of the Point. Point break high line trim by the man > that defined point break surfing. bitchin’-I was always intruiged by that board he had in “Surfers…”
When I had a long talk (for Dora) about his board at Jefferies in '97 he > was riding a Bob “Ole” Olson single fin longboard. But not a > “retro” single. He said it was the most expensive board he ever > got because he flew all the way from South Africa to Maui to pick it up. > Saw him draw the high line all the way from outside Supers through > Impossibles, through Tubes on a wave a couple of feet overhead and pull > out at the beginning of the Point. Point break high line trim by the man > that defined point break surfing. Is that what he’s riding in “Litmus”? Coincidently, I met Ole on a quick trip to Maui in January. I couldn’t resist having him make me a 9’0" single fin pintail (16"N, 21"W, 13.5"T) with balsa rails. It’s a beaut and a great ride. My wife loves Miki’s monologue in “Surfers”. She gave birth to our boy 2 weeks ago and during the labor pains she would zone out by picturing Miki talking about “shooting for my life, with the screaming teachers, police, parents etc. all behind me going over the falls into the reef and I just pull out and do the same damn thing all over again.”
What I know about more recent times; in the mid to late '80s he got a few > boards from Bill Shrosbee. That’s one of them out on the East Cape in > “Surfers:The Movie.” Single fins. Thick and flat, square tails. > When I had a long talk (for Dora) about his board at Jefferies in '97 he > was riding a Bob “Ole” Olson single fin longboard. But not a > “retro” single. He said it was the most expensive board he ever > got because he flew all the way from South Africa to Maui to pick it up. > Saw him draw the high line all the way from outside Supers through > Impossibles, through Tubes on a wave a couple of feet overhead and pull > out at the beginning of the Point. Point break high line trim by the man > that defined point break surfing. orig.Tim, I couldn
t help but put the imagery of your words together with Doras Rincon 1965 cover shot on the latest issue of Surfers Journal... the pure high line drawn far across one of the worlds most epic point breaks, experienced nearly 40 years past his prime and halfway around the world from Rincon… that`s quite a profound affirmation to consider. Thanks for sharing. Dale
orig.Tim,>>> I couldn
t help but put the imagery of your words together with Doras > Rincon 1965 cover shot on the latest issue of Surfers Journal... the pure > high line drawn far across one of the worlds most epic point breaks, > experienced nearly 40 years past his prime and halfway around the world > from Rincon… that`s quite a profound affirmation to consider. Thanks for > sharing.>>> Dale Sinatra and Dora singing “I did it my way”