Lasts longer, cuts faster. And less filling. Ha
Been using Abranet 220 and 320 6" discs for a while now sanding my epoxy hot coats. Overall, very good. They don’t last forever, but they don’t clog up and do last a bit longer then regular sanding paper discs. Take care around any sharp corners (fin boxes, etc.) because the abranet will shred pretty easy if it hits a corner. I’ve still been using regular Mirka Gold sandpaper discs for 100 and 150 grit but I am tempted to try the 100 and 150 in Abranet as these are the grits that do the heavy lifting when sanding hotcoats. Usually I use an 8" pad for this and I don’t think Mirka makes 8" disc abranet. So I’ll have to go with a 6" pad. Velcro backed Ferro’s work well with Abranet. Scotch brite disc pads also stick well to Ferro velcro pads. Mirka makes a scotch-brite copy called Mirlon (same colors, maroon and grey) in 6" discs that work as well or better than scotch brite. I got my Abranet here:
I got my Mirlon here: http://www.abglovesandabrasives.com/servlet/the-Sandpaper--fdsh--Abrasives-cln-Scuff-Pads%2C-Scuff-Discs%2C-Rolls/Categories
Less than $1 per disc when you buy the 50 packs.
They make 8 inch. That is all I use. 80/120/220
thanks for the tip RE scotch brites
Nice, are you using that grit combo on epoxy or poly, or both?
Now I see the 8" discs on Mirka’s website. A little pricey compared to the 6".
the key is a strong vacuum airflow
I don’t think you can get a sander with vacuum holes in 8"
The pad I should is from mirka and has hole in it I beleiev to let the sanding dust through, but a vacuum would be better
I used it to remove the full deck Cork pad I contact cemented to my decks as well as remove that stupid rough neverwet coating from the bottoms
there’s lost of finish and orbital sanders with good airflow in the 6" range
if your sander can suck and clear the residue through the mesh with a shop vac via the interface pad to prevent build up, then you can cut faster and without allot of pressure for fine detail sanding as well as cutting through allot of material.
Heat from contact is sandpaper’s worse enemy
I make fancy fountain pens on a lathe as another hobby and have run into this problem sanding acrylic and resin pen bodies that have inlayed/embedded designs or parts.
ruined a couple of very expensive inlayed watch part pen bodies before I found the abranet mesh from other pen turners at IAP
With a rigid or porter cable orbital you don’t have to press down at all to cut through PU and with less build up on epoxy.
I also use my Festool Rotex hooked directly up to my 16 Gal Shopvac (super suction)
plus you can rinse and clean your mesh pads with a little soap and water to extend their life.
way better than using the eraser or steel brush on regular sanding discs
tan using the eraser or steel brush on regular sanding discs
I use mirlon “scotch brit” for epoxy scuffing and abranet for sand on roto-orbital bosh RO150 pro sander on shopvac, really effective. I still don’t understand why many people in surfboard build stay on old school roto sander polisher. I don’t see them anymore in all industrial composit factory, they all use roto-orbital sander with vaccum.
Bump
I moved my shop a while back and couldn’t find the abranet box. Until this past weekend. What a diff. I’m keeping my power pads, but not likely to use them much. Many thanks to Oneula for turning me on to these.
Greg, which sander are you using with the Abra-nets?
Bernie, does the Dustless hood shown early on in the thread help? Do the pads and media need holes to make the hood effective?
Thanks!
Jrandy, I’m using a mirka backup pad like this:
https://mirka-online.com/media/catalog/product/cache/5/image/512x512/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/108gg.jpg
well, i thought I could post the image, but just click and you will see it. I use it for all of the flats and then a super soft pad with regular sand paper for the rails.
all the best