The green tinted one was most likely uv cure.
If you glassed that board with it and it was exposed to uv(sun) light. BOOM. - it will kick in seconds.
Good point colinIG… I didn’t think there would be such a difference, but by doing the math correct like you have shown I have actually used a 2% ratio not a 1% like I had intended. Thanks for the heads up!
If that is the case Wideawake…then all is explained! I had the board set up in the garage ready to glass, but I mixed the resin outside in the sunlight. No different markings on the tin to suggest it was UV, but it seems to be that most are just label with a marker, so maybe someone made a mistake and didn’t write on the tin?? I’ll probably never know!
I don’t think it was a uv resin cause this type will kick even if it’s not exposed to direct sunlight (UV).
Mixing it in direct sunlight takes less than 1 min to have it strong as fuk.
The uv resin when u remove it from UV source will stop its process.
Here in Spain, the resins are tinted to make difference between the types (isophthalic and orthophthalic).
I strongly recommend u to give a try to the UV resin, u won’t have to wait (deck and bottom lamination) till it’s fully cured. 2 minutes in the sun and u can glass the other side. Same with hot and gloss coat. Another good thing is that u can reuse the extra resin, I mean if the deck requires, for example 500ml of resin and u mix 1L with uv powder, u can store the spare of resin and use it for the other side.
I remember, one mate used to use around 2-3 ml mekp/600ml resin during the hot Spanish summer and it gave him around 15 min.
My opinion is 2% in very warm weather is too much, because cold/warm is a very important factor.
ColinIG…Any known issue if the two (isophthalic & orthophthalic) are mixed together?
Test if it’s uv cure…take a small uncatalyzed smear out into the direct sun for a few minutes. If it sets its uv cure and good for you.
Uv cure in a garage with the door closed will give you over 45 minutes working time, more than anyone glossing should be using.
Noobs however can be crazy slow with squeegee work. An experienced hand will fully pour, wet out and complete a lamination within 15 minutes including lapped rails. We don’t know how fast or slow you went.
A mass of resin goats hot in the mixing can but that same amount spread out will set more slowly.
I liked about 0.75% catalyst when using catalyst but never used it once uv cure came out…and neither should you. It’s about 85 degrees F in my garage.
Crazy strange that your supplier could not explain color differences in his product. Suspicious, even.
Orth or iso it’s because of the different anhydride of the polymer string (isophthalic anhydride and orthophthalic anhydride). Difference between these two types of resin is that, iso has better mechanical (more flex), thermal and chemical (more waterproof) resistance due that a denser molecular structure.
Iso resin it’s the one used in the nautical industry.
Lots of surf resin brands (Silmar) uses ortho, but not any type of it. These are made especially for the surf industry, when cured it became transparent not yellowish like iso, also has uv filter and very good mechanical qualities.
I really don’t give a damn fuk about the resin; because I use UV catalyst which has not the same polymerization principle so it’ll not get yellow when is cured.
¿Can we mix these ortho and iso resins? ---- YES
¿It’s good to mix ortho and iso? ---- U’ll get a lower quality resin
“Uv cure in a garage with the door closed will give you over 45 minutes working time, more than anyone glossing should be using.” LOL
It depends on the space u have. The room where I glass my boards it’s extremely small (3m L x 2m W x 2m H). And I need around 30-40 min hahahaha.
Trust me it’s a hell of a work, put the glassing racks near to the wall and glass half of the board. Then move the racks to the opposite wall and glass the other half.
In normal conditions maybe not more than 10-15 min working slow
MEKP is sold in solution. Its way too shock sensitive/explosive on its own. Standard dilution that we have in the States for use with Silmar and similar is usually like 30% or something. There are a couple non-surfboard resins I’ve seen that use a different catalyst concentration, but its clearly labeled… I’ve never hear of a material supplier preparing their own slower kick dilutions… Maybe he switched something up on your original purchase and is trying to cover.