I have been pondering the question of dominating in the line up for a while now. Certainly, the wave hungry surfers who have the "every wave " syndrome are hard to deal , but more often than not it’s the drop- in / shoulder hop crowd that are the trouble makers where I surf. In a crowed line up one has to work hard to surf and get waves, and all it takes is for another kook to look you in the eyes and drop in on you to get the blood heated up. If surfers are on the learning curve and exhibit this behavior it is usually ignorance as the cause, cured by some good communication. If disrespect is the cause, then it’s like a slap in the face. It’s no fun riding behind some goofy footed, 20 something longboarder, at a place like the con. Basically you stand there and watch someone else give there little soul arch kick out and say “Oh sorry”. Without trying to sound like some old bloke, that didn’t happen when I was learning. Now a days it’s everybody for themselves and “fuck you grandpa”. . You can surf for 35 years, stay in shape, give waves, wait, go, and still be burned. I say give respect / get respect , otherwise let the chips fall.
I no have problem,me use samurai soard to deal with crowd.Git instant respect.
I have been pondering the question of dominating in the line up for a > while now. Certainly, the wave hungry surfers who have the "every > wave " syndrome are hard to deal , but more often than not it’s the > drop- in / shoulder hop crowd that are the trouble makers where I surf. In > a crowed line up one has to work hard to surf and get waves, and all it > takes is for another kook to look you in the eyes and drop in on you to > get the blood heated up. If surfers are on the learning curve and exhibit > this behavior it is usually ignorance as the cause, cured by some good > communication. If disrespect is the cause, then it’s like a slap in the > face. It’s no fun riding behind some goofy footed, 20 something > longboarder, at a place like the con. Basically you stand there and watch > someone else give there little soul arch kick out and say “Oh > sorry”. Without trying to sound like some old bloke, that didn’t > happen when I was learning. Now a days it’s everybody for themselves and > “fuck you grandpa”. . You can surf for 35 years, stay in shape, > give waves, wait, go, and still be burned. I say give respect / get > respect , otherwise let the chips fall. AIN’T THAT THE TRUTH…I MISS THE OCCASIONAL PUNCHOUT, IT PURIFIES THE LINEUP FOR AWHILE…BRING BACK THE SEVENTIES UNSPOKEN RULES!!!
I no have problem,me use samurai soard to deal with crowd.Git instant > respect. I remember when I had just a few years under my belt and was feeling quite cocky. I had taken off on a nice head high Ala Moana bowl, to my suprise, the older Moke, dropped right in on me. When he paddles back out, I was waiting in the same spot and in my 15 year old bravado, said to him “hey, you dropped in on me”. He turns to the very local crowd and says “the haole says I wen’ take hees wave”. A lesson learned there, for the next 45 minutes I didn’t have a wave alone, it was haole share a wave day, but why was I always the one riding in the back of the bus? Sometime being vocal doesn’t work with the bully or the local union head.
“To many people surf”
I have been pondering the question of dominating in the line up for a > while now. Certainly, the wave hungry surfers who have the "every > wave " syndrome are hard to deal , but more often than not it’s the > drop- in / shoulder hop crowd that are the trouble makers where I surf. In > a crowed line up one has to work hard to surf and get waves, and all it > takes is for another kook to look you in the eyes and drop in on you to > get the blood heated up. If surfers are on the learning curve and exhibit > this behavior it is usually ignorance as the cause, cured by some good > communication. If disrespect is the cause, then it’s like a slap in the > face. It’s no fun riding behind some goofy footed, 20 something > longboarder, at a place like the con. Basically you stand there and watch > someone else give there little soul arch kick out and say “Oh > sorry”. Without trying to sound like some old bloke, that didn’t > happen when I was learning. Now a days it’s everybody for themselves and > “fuck you grandpa”. . You can surf for 35 years, stay in shape, > give waves, wait, go, and still be burned. I say give respect / get > respect , otherwise let the chips fall. precisely why i’ll opt for a less quality wave with less of a crowd on it. i would rather have a session that is better soul wise than have better shaped waves and have to battle and hassle. of course, having a soulful session with high quality waves is always a bonus. that being said, the first shoulder hop may be a mistake. two times and intervention is indicated. hell, if someone purposely bums your session out, payback is a bitch…
precisely why i’ll opt for a less quality wave with less of a crowd on it. > i would rather have a session that is better soul wise than have better > shaped waves and have to battle and hassle. of course, having a soulful > session with high quality waves is always a bonus. that being said, the > first shoulder hop may be a mistake. two times and intervention is > indicated. hell, if someone purposely bums your session out, payback is a > bitch… We all have a place in the line up. The kook punching bag, the corpulent wave pig, the give a ride respect surfer and the crafty get my share n leave when it gets bumper to bumper. We police ourselves. When I was a kid a mistake ment pain. I hate pain and learned to avoid it by following two rules: 1.Don’t drop in unless it is clear that the rider has no chance, ie going over the falls or a 30 yard section just crushed 'em. 2. Always paddle into the foam away from the path of the rider. Many the new surfers of the last 5-10 years have no concept of these rules. These rules keep the peace and safety. They can be taught in many ways, both violent and non violent. I avoid the violent way but I am not shy about friendly communication regarding the rules. The few times I have mentioned it the new surfer has been receptive and even thankful for the direction. Otherwise, just surf up to 'em and shove 'em off the board…
Correct me if I’m wrong – but all of the 70’s films I’ve seen of Hawaii show people stuffing eachother left and right, boards a flyin’. Is it really worse today?
I have been pondering the question of dominating in the line up for a > while now. Certainly, the wave hungry surfers who have the "every > wave " syndrome are hard to deal , but more often than not it’s the > drop- in / shoulder hop crowd that are the trouble makers where I surf. In > a crowed line up one has to work hard to surf and get waves, and all it > takes is for another kook to look you in the eyes and drop in on you to > get the blood heated up. If surfers are on the learning curve and exhibit > this behavior it is usually ignorance as the cause, cured by some good > communication. If disrespect is the cause, then it’s like a slap in the > face. It’s no fun riding behind some goofy footed, 20 something > longboarder, at a place like the con. Basically you stand there and watch > someone else give there little soul arch kick out and say “Oh > sorry”. Without trying to sound like some old bloke, that didn’t > happen when I was learning. Now a days it’s everybody for themselves and > “fuck you grandpa”. . You can surf for 35 years, stay in shape, > give waves, wait, go, and still be burned. I say give respect / get > respect , otherwise let the chips fall. Greetings to you, Chips Fall! This one subject is of a matter of great importance to myself (as now legally improved)! I (myself as Bonta) shall share this one example by speech: short boardsers upon waves are like tiny bugs stucked upon the windshield, and to excel as the one DOMINATOR, you (yourself) must drive the biggest Freightlining Truck upon the highways (the waves). So, as you are the one huge driving truckster plowing through the infested swarms of bookies, you must POLITELY exercise both the windshield wipers most frequently. Then the offending bookies may be firmly displaced far to the right, farther to the left, or (the better way) upon the beachy sands. But you yourself as THE DOMINATOR will control the main highways of the waves! On that day, you shall say when fully filled with the greatest of self-confidences, “MY WAVE, BOOKIES!!!” As myself, I have now shared with you the one true method to a POLITE ending of many over-crowded problems. DOMINATION is truthfully simple and the funnest of ways! Bonta
“JW is a very wise man with a very wise outlook”
Epac and crew…missed “Que”‘s question the first time around, but like you guys, this whole Domination thing/issue has been rolling around in the noggin’ after that post. The word “Dominination” reeks in and of itself…“dominion over the minions” (implied superiority/inferiority)…as if no one has any right to be in a certain place at a certain time. While it is audacious to think that some people have the full on right to waltz into a heavily surfed spot and gain instant acceptance (or any acceptance at all)…what most of you have been saying about respect is dead on. Some of the attitudes of earlier travelling surfers and their ways (the negative elements, NOT the genuine good will types) has turned around to bite us on the ass. The bad example has rubbed off, and a nasty brand of selfishness (and delusion) has hit the entire surfing world. Now, we have people all over the world going off on us. (our waves, our spot…{despite the technology we have given some of those people}). We now have people like that guy in the maldives…who puports to own the break at “pastas”…with collusion from the local authorities. That guy is not alone. there are others intimidating people away from breaks the world over. Bottom line is about selfishness. MY wave, MY beach…all about control, and in some measure, the controllers “profit” somehow. Some people like solitude…some need the world to look at them…and tell others where to go, what wave to surf on. Enrich your spirit with surfing and share some waves (and aloha) and it will come back to you. If you bring used boards to an underdeveloped nation with good surf (give 'em away and teach some of these people to surf) and if you maintain a friendship with the locals, (instead of just “taking”) they will remember you and they will welcome you into their world. RESPECT…you said it, bros!..T