Motion surfboards #3

:slight_smile:

Hey guys. Shaping a fish for a mate of mine. He saw mine and was like DAMMMMMMMMMM your making me one.

So i got the blank 2 days ago and cut out the outline and started to plane away and today i was finishing up most of it

before i get deep into the rail process. I got heaps and heaps of pictures. My garage where i shape is cluttered with loads of stuff so

in pictures it always looks crap so i made them b/w so they look good :slight_smile: The board is 5’4 x 20 1/2 x 2 3/4. Wide point is 7 1/2 up from half way.

Going to have fcs plugs and im going to make some ply fins for it with cedar lines. This is the third board, i guess you could call it that even though number 2 isnt finished.

Number 2 was a reshape from an old board. Has a daimond tail that i’ve slightly rounded and the channels have gone from 4 to 2 and the outer two have

been converted into concaves. It was a random as idea that i had so i hope it turns out ok. its also had a nose break off before hand and has been

repaired with some strong as st so its turning out to be a Bch to work with. i dont know if it’ll actually get finished.

Anyway, heres the pictures. hope you like.

Thats damian, the proud owner of number 3. Note the motion surfboards tshirts :slight_smile:

Outline.

outline

Motion surfboards workshop

I’ve drawen probably most of my maths and english book full of surfboards and graphic designs and damian picked out the one he liked. It was an instant hit.

Pictures of design will follow. This board is going to be a million times better than my first as i have some hands on experience now and know all the faults of #1

that i can get rid of.

Heres a pic of number 3 and 2

#2 is on an angle so it kinda looks distorted. I love the outline though and with a proper blank to work with i rekon it’d be an AWSOME board to ride.

I call it the book… as you shouldnt judge it by its cover. The bottom is also a lot better than the deck :?

Chris

What you guys think ???

Also i have a delemma, i went to draw out the outline for the fins for it a couple of minutes ago and then it hit me…

What the hell am i gonna stick on there ?? I was trying to think and nothing is coming up. I dont really want to put keels on thee, maybe

something more ‘new’ ?? I dunno. Anyone got any thoughts on that? Whats the norm besides keels in terms on depth and base and rake etc?

chris

Ohk guys. Sooooooooooo far, i’ve finished the shaping part and this morning before i went for the third surf this weekendi spray painted the blank.

The colour was chosen by Damian but the design has been in my head for atleast a year or so. I fixed the nose so it wasnt so chunk anymore and

then sprayed it. Looks amazing. So stoked on it. The spray is going to have a black pinline over the hotcoat so it’ll look sweet as. Still need acetone and a squeege before i can start laminating.

Cant wait. Heres the pictures. Tell me what you think…

Cheers.

Chris

awesome cheats! have a look in the “twin fin templates” thread for fins.

Looking good there mate! What’s the bottom contour like? Any concave or vee or just flat? Have you thought about making it a quad or are you thinking of a twinnie? I like the deck spray, that’s a cool color. Are you going to make a glass leash loop or are you going to put a plug in? Sorry for so many questions, let us see some photos when it’s done!

Thanks man yea its coming along quite nicely. Its going to be a twin as damian ( the guy im making it for ) wants a twin otyherwise yea it’d end up being a quad or twinzer. Its pretty much flat with a slight single concave through the front foot. Yea i hve had that spray job in my head for ever now and am really stoked that it looks as good as it does. Its going to have a leash plug even though i have seriously considered putting on a loop. Dont worry there will definately be photos when shes finished and more than likely some of it being ridden.

By the way just thought before that someone needs to put in a resource for putting in leash loops. i know tht there is lots of info in the arcives but someone needs to do it :smiley:

Chris

looks awsome! keep up the good work…

i really like the spray. the color is great and the design

is nice and clean

Thanks man. I really like getting feedback good or bad.

Thought i’d bump this thread instead of making a new one.

Finally started to glass. Did the bottom on friday and the top tonight. still needs another layer on deck.

Only have pics of the bottom.

Went ohk. definately need more practice on it but when your doing one board every couple of months experience isnt getting thrown at you lol.

Heres the pics of the bottom anyway.

and an artsey one

The bottom has some strenthening for the fcs plugs.

Chris

Ok, progress has been made. Lamination is finished and needs to be lightly cleaned up before hot coat.

Leash plug is in and fins are made but not yet foiled. Fin plug holes are drilled and waiting fitting.

Pics are on my blog, http://chriscainphotography.blogspot.com/ feel free to visit.

Fins are, B= 170mm(6 3/4") D=130mm (5" approx) Rake=30mm (1 1/4")

Holidays are near and i cant wait. Hope to finish board really soon. Still have two coats to go though.

Chris

fins are a good shape…

I like ones that are a cross between a keel and a twinnie …

I look forward too seeing them foiled , glassed and installed ! Remember to use PLENTY of glass for the tabs [you “may” need to thin the tabs for that] . Then , drill out the grub screw hole , [a bit wider than the grub screw] and fill with resin and milled fibre …

cheers ,

ben


No, no, no, noooooooooo…

Sorry, but I think you didn’t glass that board correctly.

That cheap tape and paper along the rails is only used on the HOTCOAT stage (once both bottom and deck cloth has been glassed).

When GLASSING stage you should (on bottom side, for example):

A)FREE LAP: do nothing on deck side, glass cloth over the bottom and fold wet laps over the deck rails

b)CUT LAP: apply cheap tape on deck, approx. 5cm (2") from the apex of the rail. Glass cloth over the bottom and fold wet laps over the deck rails. When resin has set, turn board deck up and apply exacto knife along the outer edge of the cheap tape.

Not allowing fiberglass to overlap on that board will cause a snap boad at first ride!!!

Sorry.

Thanks chip, i took those fin photos for you becuase i know that you’d eventually ask for them :smiley:

To neira. I know, i kinda didnt really think about most of it but half way through i realised what i was doing wrong.There is still glass lapping the rails. Does it matter what way they lap though? mine are lapping onto the bottom instead of lapping onto the top from the bottom. I just didnt know if i would have been able to see the glass ontop of the spray job. i also put some extra cloth on the swallow pins as my #1 has some spider cracks there and i didnt want it to happen again. Same with the fin plugs, there is a patch where they go for support.

I hope i havnt f ed it up. It looks and feels strong just hope it is :S

You have got me all worried now.

The pics in my blog show the bottom with the free lap; lapping onto the bottom.

Neira, could you explain the difference between free an cut laps a little better for me? What do you mean by “cheap tape”?

Cheeeeeter,

Most people lap the bottom lam onto the deck. Flip it over(after cures) and add full or 3/4 deck lam cut to overlap the bottom lap, then a full lam that over laps onto the deck. So, there are two layers of glass on the rails and both the bottom and the deck have a lap. Hope that makes sense.

Nathan,

Neira can explain it better that me, but check under cut lap in the archives for lots of info. Cheap tape is inexpensive tape that usually does a poor job of performing it’s function during lamination. fMike

NathanP:

This is a CUTLAP:

Resin is green tinted, so you can see perfectly the fiberglass layer glassed, let set, then cut.

I mean cheap=the cheapest masking tape you could find. It’s a paper tape usually used by painters for masking things they don’t want to paint.



Neira, this is in no way meant to put you down or something, but after a few years doing it (37, to be more precise), I have come to the conclusion that any CHEAP item used when building a board will very likely lead to a CHEAP board in the end…

And I would certainly point out tape as being the one thing that you should not be saving on… Let’s say that a figure and a letter can make a huge difference between a spoiled job and a near-perfect one…

i have tryed a couple of different tapes that i could get my hands on and almost all of them sucked, they didnt stick to the foam at all and leaked paint when tested on scraps.

I have found some tape which although resonablly priced does a good job. When glassing and pinlining i use a more expensive tape that does the trick. No need to be spending HUGE

amounts on tape but also no need to buy the cheapest. Find one that does the trick well and stick with it :D.

My two cents about tape.

ANYWAY… im just about to resin in the fin plugs. The fins are at a 1/4" toe in and i was wondering what cant i should put them on ? i was thinking ab out 6 or 7 degrees…

Anyone have anything to help me with that??

another thing, when resining in the fin plugs, how do you stop resin from bonding to the grub screw and killing any chance of moving it? and how do you stop the fin getting bonded to the resin

and making it no able to be removed?

Im really unshure why there is nothing about this in the resources as its good info to be in there that im shure many people would be looking at.

Please guys, any help would be sweet as im trying to finish thi board soon for the holiday surf :smiley:

Cheers guys

So yea i have resined in the fin plugs. 7 degree cant(same as my shorty) with 1/4 " toe in.

When pretty good. Maybe a little messey but that will hopefully clean up nice. I have hot coated the deck today and that looks nice.

Thanks to Chipper for the help with the fcs plugs, your a legend.

Picies:

Turning out pretty ohk. I think a could have done some things different (better) but thats for the next board :slight_smile:

Look out soon for a resource on fcs plugs and leash plug fitment.