The new surfer mag came, with an article on Michael Peterson. I realize he needed help (he realized it too), but to me it seems a mistake on the part of the mental health professionals whose care he was under that some surfing was not included as a therapeutic activity. I mean, he gets a speeding ticket, is taken in for evaluation, and never paddles out again! By the time he passed away, the meds had pretty much killed his spirit, from the sound of things.
I dunno, maybe just second-guessing here. I realize the contest scene and pressure of being in the spotlight were not good for him, but doesn't it seem like the physical act of surfing would have been healthy for him, from time to time?
BTW, on a side point, anyone remember the article "No Visible Signs of Progress" from an old Surfer mag back in the 70's? The mental hospital on the beach? Would have been the perfect place for MP!