Multiple glass layer epoxy layups

I’ve noticed that the epoxy that I’m using for fin lay-ups will go off faster in the cup I’m working out of that the material does once it’s been applied to the lay-ups. I pretty sure it has to do with it being cooled down when it’s applied to the glass. I want the material to flow well. Epoxy is a little more viscous than polyester so it has a much heavier feel to it. I don’t dare heat it up too much because we all know how the stuff starts smokin! So I guess my question is. If I’m doing say multiple thickness (7 layers of glass at once) what’s the best way to get a good resin to glass ration without over or under wetting the project? Another project I’m working on is doing multi layered glass lay-up with a hard angle bend in it.One 30-degrees another 60-degrees. I’ve though of one approach that I think will work but does any one have any ideas? Good Surfin’, Rich

As you know the resin and hardner generate heat. Because the resin is in a container where the resin/hardner mix is thicker/deeper than it would be when spread on the board the mix holds or is exposed to the heat generated by the whole batch. The same is true for poly. The resin will always kick faster in the pot compared to the lamination. In doing 7 layers of cloth, you should not have to put resin in between the layers. As long as you are using slow kicking hardner with your epoxy, you can heat the resin, and it will flow about the same as poly hotcoat. I used real hot water in a cooler, placed my container in the hot water for about 10 min. took it out then added the hardner. It makes a big difference. I would do a sample batch, taking note of the time you heat your resin, what’s the temp. of the room your working in, and how long it takes the resin to kick (in the pot). This will let you know what kind of time you have to work the resin in to your glass.

As you know the resin and hardner generate heat. Because the resin is in a > container where the resin/hardner mix is thicker/deeper than it would be > when spread on the board the mix holds or is exposed to the heat generated > by the whole batch. The same is true for poly. The resin will always kick > faster in the pot compared to the lamination.>>> In doing 7 layers of cloth, you should not have to put resin in between > the layers. As long as you are using slow kicking hardner with your epoxy, > you can heat the resin, and it will flow about the same as poly hotcoat. I > used real hot water in a cooler, placed my container in the hot water for > about 10 min. took it out then added the hardner. It makes a big > difference. I would do a sample batch, taking note of the time you heat > your resin, what’s the temp. of the room your working in, and how long it > takes the resin to kick (in the pot). This will let you know what kind of > time you have to work the resin in to your glass. Thanx Mike, I used the hot water trick and that’s when things went off all at once and created the SMOKE. So I’ve decided that a more moderate approach to temperature is best. Because I’m doing some 5.7oz. carbon work I need a little more resin in the mix because the carbon fiber doesn’t wet as easily as fiberglass. I don’t want to rush the lay-ups so I just figure it’s best to just plan on one lay-up a day and go step by step from there. I’m working outside so I have to pick my days wisely ----------- http://weather.unisys.com/satellite/sat_ir_enh_west_loop-12.html -------- is one of my favorite places to go to see what’s up with the swell and the weather which is so critical when the sky is your roof. Good Surfin’, Rich

Halcyon/ Mike D. : Which of the Epoxy products are you guys using? Thinking of ordering some S2000 for a small test project and need some guidance. Tom S.>>> I’ve noticed that the epoxy that I’m using for fin lay-ups will go off > faster in the cup I’m working out of that the material does once it’s been > applied to the lay-ups. I pretty sure it has to do with it being cooled > down when it’s applied to the glass. I want the material to flow well. > Epoxy is a little more viscous than polyester so it has a much heavier > feel to it. I don’t dare heat it up too much because we all know how the > stuff starts smokin! So I guess my question is. If I’m doing say multiple > thickness (7 layers of glass at once) what’s the best way to get a good > resin to glass ration without over or under wetting the project? Another > project I’m working on is doing multi layered glass lay-up with a hard > angle bend in it.One 30-degrees another 60-degrees. I’ve though of one > approach that I think will work but does any one have any ideas?>>> Good Surfin’, Rich

Halcyon/ Mike D. :>>> Which of the Epoxy products are you guys using? Thinking of ordering some > S2000 for a small test project and need some guidance.>>> Tom S. Tom, I’m using Aluzine 2T01 Epoxy Resin System. I get it here in Santa Cruz at Fiberglass Hawaii. I’m using it because it’s compatable with poly. I’ve tried getting a good finish surface with it and always had trouble unless it’s part of a perfect lamination. I’m using ploy to finish things out with and so far so good. Good Surfin’, Rich