The template variations kindly posted above show how important it is to use a direct scaling method IF you wish to maintain the same curve. Greg Loehr posted awhile back about scaling the outline by adding 1/8" per 1" of length when lengthening to avoid having a massively increased width. It depends on how close to the original you intend to be with the final shape…
…as mentioned; I am referring to the final length regarding the blank rocker.
Depends on how you measure length – not going there.
You might see 0.05"-0.4" variance in length for a 94" board, depending on whether you trace your template over the top or bottom rocker.
The objective here is not a precise length, but a very good approximation of desired length.
Regarding the Takayama Howard Mini, the Takayama website lists dimensions as 2.75" thickness and 21.5" width for a 7’0" (84") length. So using the widths from post #18 at 8.4" intervals, rather than 9.4" intervals, should create a reasonably accurate planshape of a 21.5 x 7-0 (84") Takayama Howard Mini.
https://www.surfboardsbydonaldtakayama.com/surfboards/mid-length/howard-special-mini/
The dimentions I posted on that tag are from the real thing. I shot that for myself because I like that outline and that length. I think rocker is a subjective thing, so I might do something with more or less rocker based on what I like, or may do 2 boards with the same outline but maybe add a little more rocker in the first 6 inches, or last foot.
3.5" in the nose and 2.5" in the tail should be fine. I think how you get to those numbers, and where the thickness (profile) ends up is more important. A 9’ 6" cut down to a 7’ 0" leaves several options for the profile and rocker curve. Slightly thinner nose will allow for maximum nose rocker. I’ve pushed my boards out to 22" max width and I’m enjoying the extra inch. You can thin the rail out more with that extra inch.
A 7’ egg with this kind of outline is close to a one board quiver. I was out at this spot on this day when Devon came out and surfed. For a short while there were maybe half a dozen of us sharing sets like this. Every now and then we get blessed with these kinds of days, and for maybe an hour there will be just a handful of people in the water. I joke with my friends that some people spend a lot of money and travel for days to get this kind of surf. Of course some days there are 20 to 30 people out and it’s hard to score the really good ones.
im a huge fan of mm for rocker…
You guys are all legends. Facinating!
Can’t wait o get into this one…
Got a block wall project on the at the moment, so it’s not active for a little yet.
Ahoy Sway Mates,
anyone know where I can score an outline template for this board? I tried building something similar to a Howard Mini and came up with something totally different but it is a board that I like and works well. But it is not a howard mini. I make templates the old school way and i make curves that look right to my eye. I dont like technology much so i’m stuck tracing curves on masonite. But for some reason I struggle to get the curves right, according to my eye, when trying to make a template for this style of board. I want to try to build one of these or an egg type board. Could the howard mini be considered an egg? Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Owen
Owen, if you take the dims from that sales tag I posted, then use something flexible, you could draw out the curve you want. This is a good metho.
Thanks Harry,
I have actually already tried doing this with very similar dimensions shooting for something similar to the Howard Mini. For some reason I just could not get it to where I wanted it. But that was 1 day a few years ago so maybe its time for a second go round!
Owen I have a roll of heavy paper from Home Depot or Lowes. I think it is for covering things when you paint. Sometimes I will take that paper, fold it in half, draw out a shape, then cut it out to see what the complete outline is. If I don’t like it, I can make small adjustments. Once I have something I like, I transfer that to a piece of masonite or thin plywood. The plywood seems to hold up better here with the high humidity.
Owen, the ‘Retro B’ and ‘Retro C’ over on Blendingcurves.com look similar.
Maybe plot one out, tape the sheets together, cut it out, and use that as a starting point for the wide paper like Harry mentioned.
BC is a fun site. Andrew has helped me a couple / few times to figure out a board or fin.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the help! I have never done that trick with the paper but I really like the idea of being able to see the whole board outline before transfering it to masonite/plywood. I will definately be trying that. I will give blending curves a good look through. Thanks again!
Owen
Nice work on that rescale Stonbreaker.
This is the one… https://www.blendingcurves.com/outline-templates/retro-b
I think in the 70s most boards would be about 19" to 19.5" wide. 20" would be on the wide side for a short board.
looks good! thanks for sharing
can you read the numbers? if not ill take a pic of it with my phone and pu tit up.
that would be great! It is hard to see such small text. Thanks
O- Right click and save the picture or view or open it in a new tab, should be bigger and able to zoom in better. -J
Yeah guys, I looked at this saved and zoomed ant numbers were plenty clear enough.