Horses for courses is all very well, I’ll even pull out a longboard sometimes when it’s micro. I don’t know what it’s like where you are folks but around here the majority of people who ride longboards would’nt have a chance in the line up if they did’nt. Maybe they could be given a nice mellow peak down the beach to themselves somewhere where they can try not to run each other over and piss each other off. They could at least stay out of the way of people who can surf.
How many people do you know who think like that? I have to fight my instincts not to think like that sometimes. Sounds like the birth of the surf Nazi movement , ( or rebirth if you cast your mind back to the late 70’s, early 80’s urban aussie scene, although that was more about being a very aggressive surfer come to think of it). Oh well, gas all longboarders , shortboards uber alles.
the guy came running down the beach yelling that
bobby was scaring the fish…
I got there to listen to the guy 'quarreling"
with the spectacle deprived 14 year old standing politely listening to the amatuer fisherman scape goat him
this ineffective outing for the fisherman
was his life that day,
quarrel?
fishing 'luck"
scrambling for waves
in a crowd…disgruntled?
blame the fishermen
blame the goodyer blimp
blame the bad parking
blame the waitress at beakfaast
and blame all the others that caught waves.
pobrecito no waves…
beter luck tomorrow
quarreling isn’t good for the soul.
…ambrose…
"quarreling isn’t good for the soul.‘’
yep.
"starting an argument is like breaching a dam ", I read once .
go surfing , and be thankful you can .
A lot of energy is released by breaching a dam…
I like the analogy
a torrent of hot air / a torrent of water…
Longboarding for me is - I know gonna be like opening a one way valve…when I next get on one…my shortboards will go on Ebay…
However I will not go gentle into that dark night…I will strive against the dying of the light…
Although by that analogy…longboarding’s heaven!
Human nature is funny old thing really. I was reading about tribal life in Papua New Guinea where stone age cultures still exist, a tribe member was telling an interviewer that when he mets up with another man he did’nt know, if no connection though tribe or family could be made, the natural tendency is to want to kill the other bloke as he is viewed as a threat. He also explained that if you fancied a woman who was with another man it was perfectly acceptable to fight and kill that man to make her yours. These folk live a life very different from ours, its sort of raw, (animal?) ,with very few layers of civilisation. Our culture has vastly more layers of civilisation but they seem to be easily striped off by extreme situations, tension and quarrelling. What is war but organised barbarism.
Must be about time I posted something about surfboard design, although last time I did I did’nt get one reply, funny old world.