got this email from my son today (my surf partner for 20 years)…couldn’t make the trip because of biz…damn, wish I was there…
Dad,
Made it to Mexico safe and sound. Got our first surf session in straight
from the airport at a pointbreak called Conejo. Surfed this morning at
another point called San Diego. Really fun waves. No barrels yet, just
long head-high walls that peel until your legs are burning.
The camp is cool, basic but friendly staff. Staying with a few of the
Roxy girls who absolutely rip, especially Sally Fitzgibbons. They’re
real friendly in the water, lots of waves to go around. Tomorrow night
we got Kelly Slater flying in for the swell that hits mid-week.
It frigging hot down here, even the the pros are complaining.
Alright, I’m on my iPhone so I’m gonna quit pecking now. Just wanted to let you know I made it here safe. Love you.