I’ve always felt way more comfortable on narrower boards, I feel like they go faster and they hold way better (especially when combined with rounded pins). I normally ride a 6’1 x 18 3/8 x 2 5/16 shortboard, for small waves.
What do you guys reckon about a 6’6 x 17 15/16 x 2 3/8 semi gun with continuous rocker from the centre (no flat point really) with 5 3/8" nose rocker and 2 3/8 tail rocker.
I was thinking of glassing it with 6x6 epoxy on the deck with a 4oz deck patch and a 4 x 4oz on the bottom.
I am 161lb and 5’11.
The board is for head and a half - double over head indo and pipe, and possibly for Raglan, NZ if my other 6’6 doesnt make it.
I’m intrigued by this issue of limiting narrowness. What’s the issue with 1/2" narrower? Is there a critical narrowness beyond which too much rocker has to be used to create the necessary compound curves?
In any waves of consequence, no matter the size, the ''secret'' to success is not only catching the wave, but catching it as early as possible. Board width provides a better advantage, than board length. I think you should go with 20 inches wide. Along with rocker, you need a good outline curve to obtain optimum speed AND performance. Plenty of macking Pipeline has been ridden on boards in the 20/21 inch width range, without ANY problems. I've made 23 inch wide guns for guys in Hawaii, that were ridden in big Sunset, and in 30 foot Makaha during that epic Dec. 1969 swell. Width is more your friend, than it is your enemy. Within reason, of course.
I find it interesting that so many people assume that they can just paddle out to places like Pipeline or Sunset for the first time and not have problems.
Pipeline jacks up really fast, so you have to be able to paddle your ass off to get in then you have about a half second to get to your feet and setup for the the drop. Years ago it wasn’t too bad, but now there are serious crowds when the waves are “rideable” and they can make the difference from making a wave or getting killed.
Last week I took my family on a drive around the island, We spent some time up on the north shore watching the big surf. Only a couple of crazies were out at Pipe on surfboards, most were boogeyboarders. At Sunset the waves were huge and as we got there Pancho Sullivan and a friend were just about to go out. We watched them struggle through the inside, then get caught by a massive set that broke all the way across the bay past Kammies. Those 2 were being dragged down towards Kammies, and I wanted to see how long it took to get out, but the family was getting bored, so we left.
I hope you have some friends that know the places you want to surf pretty good to help when you go
out.
Bill, your last sentence says it all. Kneeboards are around 23 1/5" wide and 6’0". They are pigs to paddle. Get them to 22-22.5" and they paddle much better (everything else held constant), but other issues arise. It seems that the length/rocker is a key determinant of how wide or narrow you can go. A 7’6" at 18" wide would seem to be a very different creature to a 6’6" at 18"?