I continue to explore my “pinline persona”. Trying as many ways as I can to do pinlines. Sort of practicing my chops. I have read all the stuff here about Liquitex in the tube and figured I’d just go to the Liquitex web site buy a few tubes , start squirting and be in business.
Of course it ain’t that easy. I’m overwhelmed by the choices of material. What type do I buy? I’ve read that you use it straight from the tube. Just squirt? Does it flow? Do you use a brush to smooth it out? Am I aiming for flat (no ridge) pinlines? Is it brittle and does it crack when you pull the tape? You need a clear coat over it right? Epoxy over the top ok?
Gotta say that the art pins are the easiest so far. But I’m looking for the traditional pinlines seen on the old LB’s.
Just exploring. Practicing my chops in case Moonlight calls me up and needs me to fly out and take over their production. Should I send them my number? Or would I be more likely to pick the 6 winning lotto numbers?
I saw that you always say India ink and somebody didnt or dont understand so well; cause in several countries is China ink…or tinta China in some Spanish tongue Countries…may be that s is what happend…
Make sure the surface is well sanded so there are no scratches (like 320-400 grit). Tape off your lines like you would for resin pinlines (3M 233 tape). Burnish the tape edges down with a tongue depressor. While squeezing the tube of paint with the tube opening pressed against the gap between both pieces of tape, move the tube down the line releasing a uniform amount of paint. Run a small squeege over the line to clean up any excess paint. Remove the tape. Your done!! Works best on narrow pins. Gets harder as you go wider. I spray the wide ones.
it’s the thicker paste paint in the metal tube. (think slightly thicker than mayonaise) And you can use a razor blade as the squeegee. Just fill the gap flat between the masking tape. A little dab will do ya.
Don’t use the thinner paint because it will sag in the masking tape giving you a crisp translucent top, and a thick opaque bleeding bottom to the line.
The thicker stuff. Though back when Liquitex tubes came in only one “flavor” it was what is now called soft body. Any water based tube acrylic will usually work (Golden ect.) though some specific colors might bleed with poly gloss resin. You’ll get more uniform results with the opaque colors than with transparent.
Atomized, On the most recent packaging from Liquitex the thick Liquitex in the tube is now called Heavy Body, and the thinner stuff is called Soft Body. For pinlines the best one is the Heavy Body. Soft Body will run.
And one tip: as soon as the paint is down, pull the tape right away. Otherwise it will get to a “rubbery” stage as it dries and some areas will pull off the board.
Scuff the pinline down with a red scotchbrite pad or 400 paper to remove any high spots or shinny spots. Remove any residual dust created from scuffing by blowing it off with an air hose.
Ditto on the light sanding before glosscoat. Another and very good way to clean off the dust before gloss besides compressed air is to use a tack cloth. It will get everything. You can find tack cloths at any decent lumber / hardware store, or paint supplier.