I am off to a good start on shaping my first
board out of 2lb EPS. It’s a 10’ board
with more or less a fun shape (very similar to a Stewart’s Clydesdale) The tail
is a narrow pin tail and I’m thinking at 225lbs I won’t having any problems
turning the board with out shaping in some vee in the tail. Can someone give me some insight on the trade
off of maneuverability and instability that occurs when adding vee to a pin tail
long board?
Thank you - micksurfer
Adding vee to your board will give it more rail rocker, so it will follow a more natural, slightly tigher turning redius. If you’re one to ride a longboard in larger surf (head high and up) it will give you some control at speed. In small surf, it will keep you closer to the pocket and if you roll the vee, and add some tail kick, it will help facilitate noseriding. There are a lot of other variables, but this is a start.
NJ Surfer - thanks for explanation - I shaped the vee in last night.
mjl
you explain shite well NJ, vee is a different beast, it can really suit some surfers and boards but from my experience, you either love it or hate it....I like a little bit in my guns, just out the back of fins for me...helps control speed and easy to get em on rail....
NJ Surfer - I could use some painting advice. I have painted my board with B. Moore paint with a Golden additive. Prior to painting I sealed with Fast-n-Final w/ Futures. I applied the spackle very light and in some places the board still has small foam pockets - no more than 1/16" deep. When I glass with epoxy will these fill in an not be visible? I’ve attached a picture of the pockets. Also, do you glass both your fiberglass layers at the same time or one at a time with curing/drying in between? Thanks for your help - I seemed to have latched on to your previous posts.
mjl
It looks from the pic that you’ll likely see those divits after glassing. It won’t look horrible, but you’ll see them. Ideally, you want to progress through your paper grits in such a way that you’ll have minimal texture to the surface. But if you end up with bead holes, you’ll want to fill them with spackle, in a couple coats if needed, then sand flush with the surface for painting. If you haven’t glassed yet, you can always go back and fill in the holes with more spackle, and do another coat of paint. Keep in mind that too much spackle, particularly F&F (not so much with resin/balloon slurry) and/or too much paint, can create bonding issues. Don’t get me wrong, it’s ok to paint. But you don’t want to build up layers. Looks like you painted it white?
Lay down both layers at once.
Let’s see a pic of the whole board!
J Surfer - thanks for the insight. First board and I won't be making another one for some time thus I really appreciate the help. Big guy board for a 225lb lake surfer. I'll fill the voids up, light sand and repaint a thin coat.
Mick just a question, I can’t tell if it is the lighting or what but how thick is that board, at 1 ft from the tail and 2 ft from the tail? Just asking because it looks super thick, and not super thick because I’m a fly weight, but super thick from what I’m used to seeing guys your size ride.
Thicker is better in fresh water.
From the nose 1.5", to 2.0". From the tail 2’’ to 2.5". Very thick through out - 4" thick in the middle three feet of the board. My other board is a NSP 11’ (I’m riding it in the picture) and for our two local soft breaks I’m getting loads of wave time and connecting for very long rides. So the idea with this board was to try and maintain my wave catching and time on the board but improve my ability to get a few more turns in.
To vent the board or not to vent? Please comment.
some say yes ,,, some say no
I say be safe and vent it
Oh, yea that sounds good, it looked like it was 3 inches thick back there.
