o.k., after 100+ boards, i’ve finally been asked to make one with channels. actually four channels. can anyone briefly explain the process of cutting them? i.e., where to draw my pencil marks, how far up from the tail, how to mark them relative to the fin placement (thruster)… thanks in advance for any info. kirk
o.k., after 100+ boards, i’ve finally been asked to make one with > channels. actually four channels. can anyone briefly explain the process > of cutting them? i.e., where to draw my pencil marks, how far up from the > tail, how to mark them relative to the fin placement (thruster)…>>> thanks in advance for any info.>>> kirk Yea Kirk, Sounds like you have alot of experience;I’ve only shaped 5 boards, but I put speed channels on my 5th and they turned out great.I used a long piece of (bendy)wood lined up with the end of the nose on the stringer.From the tail I made some marks the distance from the tail where the channels flow off the board. I was making a twinzer type board so the placing of the channels may be different for you. I made the lines go about 2 shakas past the fins and 1 less on the inside lines. I then took a long block about 1"x2"x2’ and held it on the line and used a block sand with 60 grit to take them dowm.they ran about 1/4 to 0. I have no idea if this is the right way but it worked for me.nice and easy. Woodie. P.S. I cant get my other user name to work.
kirk, USE masking tape to guide your cutting. you will end up with flawless channels.JUST tape your high points off,and cut away the foam will cut but the tape won’t.GOOD to be HOME!!!Herb.
Just did one for a friend, a 6’4"x18 1/2". It works great in clean stuff but it gets sorta drifty in windy choppy waves. We ran the channel’s parallel to the stringer from just behind center to almost the trailing edge of the side fins. they were spaced out so they would fit between the stringer and the leading edge of the side fins. I use masking tape to mark the cannel’s and to keep me from cutting out side the lines, just like Herb said. I used a block that was 1"x 2"x 8" with some 60 grit belt sander paper. The belt sander stuff works good because you can put a nice sharp crease in it, then line that up with the edge of the block and it makes a good clean cut. If I was to run the channel’s off the tail I would do them like woody and use the fin placement as a guide. I think in deciding how far they should run up the board, you may want to look at the rocker and the surfer’s style, see where he/she puts there feet or if they drive the board more with the back or front foot. Maybe like placing vee to suit the riders leverage points. I hope this helps. good luck, Scott.
i cant really help much, but on the subject of channels…i got anuther question i noticed on one of my boards that the foam on the bottom just inside the rail has sucked in a bit in the back half of the board, forming a fairly distinct but narrow channel/concave that follows the rail. and it seems to give the board a bitta extra bite and drive. does anybody shape channels that work on similar lines- tapering into the tail rather than parralel to stringer or fanning out? and can they say how or why they work (or dont!) its got me curious.
My Brother had a 6’0" twinny back in 78 or so shaped by a guy named Ralph Hui Hui that had channels/concaves like that. They ended at wings placed in front of the fins. For a twin the board seemed to have a lot of drive. Scott. i cant really help much, but on the subject of channels…i got anuther > question>>> i noticed on one of my boards that the foam on the bottom just inside the > rail has sucked in a bit in the back half of the board, forming a fairly > distinct but narrow channel/concave that follows the rail. and it seems to > give the board a bitta extra bite and drive. does anybody shape channels > that work on similar lines- tapering into the tail rather than parralel to > stringer or fanning out? and can they say how or why they work (or dont!)>>> its got me curious.