throw up the link for god sake. test it w/your fins first. what contact point on the board recieves the most abrasion? maybe Thrailkill could speak to that. I’m flatwater paddling this summer, moving forward with my coating design.
I don’t think Ross Techonologies had the capital to bring it to market but with Rustoleum’s backing it’s gonna be on every hardware store shelf selling Rustoleum products soon.
All the rest of these after market coatings have just been tanked by the 800lb gorilla if there’s a case for it on boards with the exception of the effect on the finish of the end product.
BTW this stuff was never made for nor marketed for applying on sufboards just something we came up with. But to me its no different that using homedepot foam, or woven bamboo wall covering as a skin or stringer, or future floor wax or Behr as a top coat or color spray additive, or baby diaper filler inplace of Qcel, or fast and final as an EPS sealer, or nylon netting as a binder cloth or liner as peel ply… Its just another off the shelf product that can be used to to the benefit of a home builder.
As far as fabric, I don’t see it with the stiffness and texture it creates unless it’s work boots or work gloves. that guys shirt and pants must have felt like sandpaper lined cardboard after spraying this stuff on it.
Also the fumes are bad I had my respirator on but it was as bad as spraying lacquer not like paint.
The only thing worse is coating my pens with 12 coats of CA glue finish.
you need a well ventilated area and a good respirator luckily we had 15-24 mph tradewinds all weekend
I think areas like your bathtub tile wall or shower stall walls or wash buckets or wash sink might make sense to eliminate mildew and wiping down. I thought their idea of spraying it on a toilet scrub brush was genius even masonry and concrete walls would make sense to reduce water damage although there are coatings for that already.
Neverwet coated mud flaps, drain gutters, flashings, electrical wire lines. Seems like the possibility is endless where you don’t want mud, water or ice in the winter to build up. The inside of air compressors would be good to, no more rusting from the inside out.
As far as ding repair i think solarrez or 5 min epoxy putty are better solutions.
What came to mind to me after watching that demo of water sticking to the inside of a square sheet, is directing water flow by creating a dynamic of hydrophobic and hydrophiic surfaces where the hydrophilic surface is shaped in a manner and highly polished or “sanded” to speed up the water flow as it travels on that path. I don’t think the water running along the large planing surface of your board’s bottom is doing you any good. Its the water’s reaction to your fins and your rails is what creates the most drive and directional flow. Coaxing water to concentrate on those specific areas of a surfboard is the impact I am looking for. Shaping water flow via spray patterns is what I’m envisioning and hopefully there is a way to be able to dynamically change those patterns by being able to remove and reapply such a coating. Although nothing has been mentioned about how to remove this stuff yet.
Shapers are forever fooling around with bottom design, rockers, edges, profiles, structure and even fins to achieve the same result even using flex these days. But in the end other than monkying around with fins and hydroflex its usually one output one result.
With a sacrificial board, a $20 rattle can and a way to remove the stuff, you can get more testing done both cost effectively and that dirty word “green” since you don’t have to build another board just to do so.
So think about that one all those don’t piss in my ocean diehards.
Personally I like to mark my spot with my scent so my relatives know its me and don’t try and take a bite inorder to check it out.
Just kidding but yes, i do let her rip except when I’m in a wet suit. Usually its a sign of a big set coming
I think I’ll call my personal coating “alwayswet”
BTW
here’s the components from the MSDS
(not exactly your standard earth compounds)
Is it just liqufied polypropelene?
- Composition/Information On Ingredients
Chemical Name CAS-No. Weight % Less Than ACGIH TLVTWA ACGIH TLVSTEL OSHA PEL-TWA OSHA PELCEILING
Liquefied Petroleum Gas 68476-86-8 30.0 N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E.
Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-89-8 20.0 100 ppm N.E. 100 ppm N.E.
n-Butyl Acetate 123-86-4 15.0 150 ppm 200 ppm 150 ppm N.E.
Methyl Isobutyl Ketone 108-10-1 15.0 50 ppm 75 ppm 100 ppm N.E.
Methyl Acetate 79-20-9 15.0 200 ppm 250 ppm 200 ppm N.E.
Ethyl Acetate 141-78-6 10.0 400 PPM N .E. 400 PPM N.E.
Polypropylene 9003-07-0 5.0 N.E. N.E. 5 mg/m3
There’s gonna be a bunch of ‘closet’ never wetters in the lineup. No one paddles out and expresses their love for Rain-X, Creme-X, Polish-Y but people are doing it. The flatwater race guys are looking at this and wetting their pants hahaha. More fried chicken and donuts, I’m on board.
This PSI failure nonsense should be handled like this: take a garden hose with a brass nozzle and point at your detail. If the coating comes off, hey we all got a $20 problem; take it spray your shoes and topsheets to your snowboard or skis. But my guess is it sticks. Just don’t shoot the coating on a fine finish. Cut it back to 180-220 I’m thinking. Never wet is rough anyway, apply it correctly if you’re gonna do it.
I’m not sure surfboard speed would be in the same league, pressure wise, as a hose with high pressure, or a pressure washer. Both of which would concentrate their force in a localized area, and breach the coating. That is what I think Ross is addressing.
I had the same reaction, when I saw it. The BEST example of surface tension I’ve ever seen. Surface tension is overlooked, it seems, by everyone. It’s the wild card, at the AIR/WATER BOUNDRY LAYER, where we play. Now there is a tool to manipulate it. Fun times ahead, eh?
some one prior not me said some thing about nano science in a can or something to that effect’??When teflon first came out it was the cure all for cooking until? you know the story. I am not trying to be skeptical its like those guys that post how to spray an automobile with spray cans just like the pros deal???Guys that do auto painting the good ones are masters just like shapers.But i like all of you will wait for anyones results as for its ability to shear off a surfboard or revolution? ,the ocean is way more harsher than a garden hose and a windsurfer at speed is the fastest sailing craft next to ice racers unless you have done it you will never know . If i see a company like gortex start to shake they set the trend in waterproofing fabric or the everest guys swearing by this stuff notice no endorsement or articles yet from those extrene guys that i have read yet, then some serious validation will begin in earnest on many levels.Do you think a company like gortex was not aware of these guys and possibly were approached by these upstarts and the conclusion we have yet to see,I repeat i post not to offend but the stuff many of you guys post has always been stimulating and thought provoking but again if you read the reviews at home depots site and application directions it say alot if you read it.Case in point read the running guys shoe spray job and his conclusion anecdotal yes some fact yes stir it around you decide.I look forward to Oneula test results and thank you for taking time to do it.In order to find a place that cant be found you have to be lost… POC
Clarify poc is not what you think it’s pirates of the caribbean I loved that line aloha,
I guess I didn’t get my point across. Here’s the right interpretation:
-That’s more like it. If you need a litmus test, Privateer, you could always test it yourself. After reading your slant on this, not sure you’d buy into any ride report or hold up…Rattle can–albeit easy to f-- up, is simply a delivery method. You don’t need millions to do professional work. Sometimes the best work comes from the simpliest setups.
I posted this two days ago. This afternoon, I got a call from HD that they found it! So, now I’m in the ‘‘club’’ too. I have a kit of my own. Now to coat something.
I’m jealous. Really want to test this gear. Even in a swimming pool. Set up a bungy cord[leg rope] half way up on each side of the pool … spring it back round the fin and let her go. With a Stop watch and helper app [human] 
wouldn’t be too hard to get a before and after reading.
I’m thinking about trying this stuff out on one of my wetsuits… I know my newer Sgx is supposed to repell water, but honestly it still gets pretty wet. Of course we don’t need one in FL right now but… What do you guys think?
I just got my order of Never Wet today and read the literature…It might attack the neoprene (they didn’t specify neoproene), might not bond to the neoprene. But you’d really have to load up on the basecoat, which is equivocally a paint; so you’d be adding a bunch of spray paint to your suit. The basecoat is emphasized heavily on poreous objects when the user’s trying to achieve full waterproofing. If it does work, you’d have a drysuit, not a wetsuit. A wet suit is supposed to be wetted to insulate properly. And most suits are pourous at their seams. You should just buy a premium fuseflex wetsuit IMO.
EDIT: eye opener: not recommended for fully submerged/underwater items; Never Wet requires a mix of air and water to shed molecules as designed.
For flatwater padding, this means there’s no point in shooting the whole board, let alone the fins, the fin and 2/3 the board is submerged 100% of the time in open water paddling, those drag coefficients are probably the same. Shoot the nose, parts of the deck, and rails, paddle blade. That’s about it. You’d be wasting time and money if your shooting the entire hull bottom–according to the manufacturer.
For surfing: have fun guys, I’m shooting a few wake-surfers w/NeverWet I shaped for my nephews; these boards should fly a little faster.
Neoprene have fully sealed bubbles inside, and insulate quite well without any water in them. In fact, keeping water out of them with fully sealed seams, good seals around hands and wrist, etc. is key to surviving here. Quiksilver (and propably others too) have wetsuits with a surface treatment that sheds water to prevent water evaporating which work pretty good. Trying out neverwet to get that affect would be worth a shot IMO. Hopefully you still stick to the wax on the board.
Neoprene wears down, and your suit will take on more water over time. Shooting a coating won’t prevent this. I have fully dipped booties, these work great, but they aren’t coated with NeverWet, they’re coated with liquid neoprene.
And I’m not referring to the closed cells in neoprene. A wetsuit traps a thin layer of water/perspiration and your body warms it under the rubber layer. They take on a bit of water. Havaard’s definitely right about the seams and zippers, but shooting a coating won’t help this, a better wetsuit will.
The slightest abrading dimminishes the effects of Never Wet. Even if bonded perfectly, and you surfed in a sterile environment not to abrade the coating, your suit would be taking on the additional weight of the paint instead of a thin film of water.
Painting a wetsuit is a waste of cash. Buy a better wetsuit.
…let’s get back to spraying this stuff on boards.
If air/water is required for Never Wet to work properly, fully submerged objects fall victim to other forces no coating can address then?
Dolphins are fast as s*#t in the ocean. Do they have the same skin as sharks? These animals move at race clip fully submerged. Shape & strength, albeit human or wave superceds skin then.
Do surf fins make enough air contact?
Vaeska, The physics of a shark say that it should swim slower then it actually does swim. Much like the physics of a Honey Bee says that it should not be able to fly. Science has discovered that the skin on a shark is the reason that Sharks can swim faster The shark skin design creates mini vortices that help propel the shark forward.
My personal view on Never Wet is that it might have an effect on directing water across the bottom of a board. This adding in moving water in a desired direction might effect over all performance such as different fin set ups enhance performance.
got it. Yeah, I’m a bit torn right now. I just need to test it and stop talking. How much coating is overkill on a huge paddle race board is my dilemna…
a little wrong about shape
its total design…
people forget that a porpoise/shark is basically one giant flexing muscle, with a hydrodynamic shape, fins and skin to improve their mobility, but its the muscles ability to control, flex. contort and snap all the components of their design that makes them do what they do.
Dr Max Cramer in the 1960’s confirmed the impact a porpoise’s skin had in improving the hydrodynamic flow of water at the boundry layer something Bill talked about regarding the line between hydrophyllic and hydrophobic reactions.
the closest any one in the surfing world has come to mimic-ing what such a water animal does is Morey with his boogie board and Greenough with his mat surfing.
I’m not sure whether a surfboard as a watercraft could ever do this
One thing that no one realizes except perhaps some one like Eva Hollman is that water is your surfboard’s enemy. Water’s whole intent is to penetrate and break down a structure like a surfboard through micro stress fractures in the surface. Keeping water off the surface especially when out of the water can only be a good thing. Also found this on Eva’s website as well…
“Q: why is it so important to get all the water out?
A: the ingredients of your board are waterproof, but not necessarily vapor-proof. As the board warms, pressure within increases, causing water-vapor to form, which can migrate through minute imperfections in the laminations, causing bond failures and other unpleasantness.”
"Water is pretty sticky: dip a paddle into the ocean and it comes up with much water attached. Move a board through the ocean – be it surf, windsurf, stand-up, or kitesurf -, and it will drag a substantial amount of water along, which, as it eventually cannot hold on to the bottom any more, emerges behind in the form of a wake. The energy that you generated with your sail, kite or paddle, went into accelerating not just you and your board, but this rather substantial mass of water as well.
To go faster, then, we need to decrease the amount of water “sticking” to your board – “reducing the drag” in techno-lingo, since the best wake is no wake!
In extensive tank testing for world-class racing boats, it was established 40-some years ago that a glossy surface has substantially more drag than a matte one. In tests I was involved in for an America’s Cup boat, we found that simply sanding a glossy bottom with 600 grit paper, reduced the surface friction by about 5% at ½ hull speed, i.e. at about 4.5 knots. Instead of sticking to the glossy bottom, the water molecules would be “tripped up” by the minute ridges left by the sandpaper. This slight turbulence would reduce the thickness of the film of water being moved along with the vessel (the “boundary layer”), and thereby reduce the overall drag.
Surfboards are traditionally finished super-glossy-shiny. Windsurfers, on the other hand, have long since followed the lead of sailboat racers and taken the gloss off the bottoms of their craft.
If you wonder if your bottom is too shiny, throw a cup of water at it: if the water beads, like it will on a freshly waxed car, then the surface tension is high, and therefore its resistance going through the water is high.
To change it to a low-drag surface, sand it in a circular motion with 600 grit wet & dry paper, until water thrown at it runs off in sheets – WITHOUT ANY BEADS forming.
Instead of wet & dry sandpaper, you can also use a “Purple Pad”, a Scotch brand synthetic wool pad designed to burnish metal and take off rust. Again, a circular motion is optimal.
To keep this fast surface fast, wash it now and then with soapy water; and lightly apply the Purple-Pad when the bottom appears yellow."
Water surface tension and beading is not drag. It is related to water molecules being attracted to one another as dipoles. In the air, water beads on hydrophobic surfaces and rolls off because it is attracted to itself and not the hydrophobic surface.
Hydrophobic surfaces have no polar charge (including waxed car surfaces). Water is not attracted to the hydrophobic surface because the hydrophobic surface has no charge (positive or negative). So it beads. Air is not involved. There is no significant amount of air on a submerged hydrophobic surface.
Scotch Purple (Maroon?) Pad or Gray Pad?
a great seal head basher once told me
always buy only quality, 3M products
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfR_FMsg_AI
I have 600 wetndry
I wonder what’s the difference?
but Eva should know