Well, the new board was sick, but I’ve learned a few things over the weekend.
carry the tucked-under edge back a bit further maybe, don’t start the full-down so soon
half inch or so less nose rocker might work
a touch less toe on the side fins maybe?
Whilst attempting to rip Moss Landing on a 3X day, don’t be surprised if Moss Landing rips YOU. Thanks to the tow-in driver who gave me a ride back in from however far past the end of the harbor I was …
Getting hit with a 25 lb board really blows.
Getting sliced through your wetsuit by your own fins on a nasty shorebreak really blows too.
Fish tacos for three meals a day improves your sessions.
Hope to hit it hard again after some ding repair/new leash/wetsuit repair etc.
Hey Billy- Was that you at Indicators/Cowell’s in Santa Cruz after your beating at Moss Landing? I saw a guy with a tie dye board out off the Surf Statue. Be glad the only beating you got at Moss was by the waves. A friend got beat up on the beach pretty bad last week. Some real friendly guys by the Jetty there.
Hey Endless, How’d the current treat you at indicators that day?
I ran into Billy on the street while walking back after a session on the 31st? He was just getting in the water, and mentioned a little bit of fun at Moss Landing that morning. Btw Steiny, I was the guy on that broken longboard with the balsa top at cowells a couple weeks ago. I’ll introduce myself properly next time we run into each other. Lots of familiar faces around this town, it took me untill after that session to make the connection.
You know, I’m not sure how much is attitude, observance of etiquette, just plain luck or if I really look that bad *ss (I don’t think I do) but I’ve not had trouble with locals at any spots including Moss. I hope I never do. I’m not a fan of violence.
I’ve seen some rogue looking groups of locals out at Moss crowding a ‘perfect peak’ and I just usually paddle to some slightly less than perfect peak away from them … and ride the waves they don’t want. Seems to avoid confrontations so far …
About surfing though … many of you are more experienced than I. Given Sunday’s ill-fated session, what’s your opinion of where the difference lies between being stoked/pushing the limit vs. sealing your coffin? I don’t think I was flirting with death at all, just trying to challenge myself. I was almost out of that rip but it was just crazy strong with the outgoing tide compounding the issue … and having to paddle harder on the new board than what I’m used to …
I think if I had it to do over again, I could get to the lineup. Not all the way to the outside sets, but by the jetty (smaller waves) that I was aiming for.
Thoughts? I’m considering taking a week long holiday sometime, perhaps I should seek professional instruction rather than free-surfing the whole week, to hone my skills?
hi steiny… hey ive surfed moss for 35 yrs, and i heard the guy who got beat up was the instigator… he was being real aggresive, and took off on a couple locals…someone called him on it and he immediately wanted to go to the beach… the guy who brought it up is a really nice guy… he is also not all that big… sooo one of his friends came to the rescue… this friend dunked the aggressor which kinda startled him… then they went to the beach, and the chase was on… all the way to the agreesors pick-up where he grabbed a baseball bat… the local doin the chasin took a really good shot to the head and shoulder… welll this all went down in front of the locals fire ring… by the time the clubbing went down the cavalry had arrived, where they took care of business… we could all get along if people would just come to surf andleave everything else at home… i would rather fly under the radar at a radical surf break then show up begging for trouble. your friend got what he asked for.
Sounds like a lot of fun. My friend isn’t one to back down from a fight but when I surf with him his etiquette is pretty good. The report I heard was similar- my pal did nothing to keep this from happening. I’m surprised he didn’t let his dog out of the truck- ouch! Me- I go surfing to have fun and I get along with everybody. I never escalate a situation. Do you ever hear from Scott K down in Mexico? I need to email him