Ok People i after making my first two boards i think it is safe to say that i have the “shaping bug”. I have know thought of what i am going to make next. Im am going to make a 9’4" x 23" x 3" Triple stringer mal. I am going to be posting all of the process on sways as i go. I am planing to pick up the blank this afternoon and will start the shaping straight away.
I have shaped about 15 boards, but only tow of them i made undermy own brand and for myself. I know that i am still unexperienced compared to most of you guys here so im would be soooo glad if people could give me a hand along the way.
the origanal plann was to make a performance longboard 9"1’ x 22 1/4" x 2 1/2"
so i was going to make it a three stringer for strength. i have alot of mates withe the same performance dimensions and they all snap their board within a month of getting then
well i ordered the blank a week and i bit ago know from shapers australia. except the courier has been screwing me around latley planing hide and seek with my blank. oh well should have it on monday will let you know what happens.
hey folks im going to stat shaping the blank tomorrow i want to put in a nose concave but im not really sure how to do it i cant find much info on it in the threads. apart from what they do.
do i just sand down the area that i want concaved?
nope! but what you said sounds good to me! i think a home made curved sanding block wouldn’t go astray though maybe?
I have no idea how shapers do it mate, I’m just trying to imagine how I would do it if it were timber!! I think you could do the rough-out with a planer first and then switch to sanding block, keep checking for eveness in concave with a flat stick laid across nose, ask the experts though mate, i’m just thinking out loud, late on a sunday night!!
Hi again Shaun! this is pretty much the same thing i told you at school but here it is from the mouth of one of swaylocks most respected shapers Jimthegenius.
“I always plane out the excess foam and stringer from the area I want to be concaved, whether it be blended or dish type. On the dish concaves, mark lightly with a soft pencil and tape just outside the line and sand away after planing, The tape is very resistant to erosion from the sandpaper, if some of the pencil line still is there, you can re-tape to the inside of the line and clean up from there”
But to tell you the truth. theres not much point putting in nose concave, you’d just be making more work and trouble for yourself. out of my longboards with a) Nose Concave or b) flatbottom i’ve always found the flatbottom to noseride better.
you’ll probably have even more trouble with cutting nose concave into a tripple stringer though. and i’ll see if i can find a thread where one of the us longboard shapers was talking about nose concave vs no nose concave.