You can tell if you have the proper saturation by the sound of your squeegee on the blank. Too noisy means you have pulled off too much resin. If you have pulled too much off; immediately squeegee on a second “cheater” coat. Some glassers use a cheater coat on every lam as a routine. Press down the lam at the rail apex with your fingers to remove those tiny little air pockets along the rail. I use a rubber squeegee to do 90% of the lam. A hard plastic squeegee to do the final tuck and pull resin off the laps. My fingers to press down the rail apex an press down the cuts at nose and tail. I used to use a throw away cotton fiber roller to saturate the rails. I’ve decided to go back to that practice. I never was that good at the pour and squeegee technique need to cascade resin off the hanging cloth. Lowel
Thats a good idea, I will also use the rubber and hard squeegee. Using the uv resin for the fin box patches really helped me to slow down and remove every tiny bubble using the hard squeegee, if I pulled too much off then I would add a few drops back to the glass.
Installing the fusion boxes (after lamination) from left to right:
Going to bali in september, going to make a 6’5" step-up. I’m not sure of the fin placement of glass to put on since all my boards are around 6’0" and 4x4x4 oz E cloth, but I was thing maybe 4x4x4 with carbon fibre hybrid 80mm innegra rail tape for the rails at the back foot. http://www.shapers.com.au/carbon-fibre-hybrid-80mm-innegra-rail-tape/
fin placement something like this: rear fin 4" up, side fins at 12" up with 1/4" toe in at 1" from the rails and a cant of 5 degrees?
Also while I’m asking about fin placement, does anyone know what a 5’10" hypto Krypto’s fins placement is? I have a mates who has a 6’1" and another who has a 5’5" (which I’m going to measure and guess in between if I can’t get a answer :) ) but not a 5’10", its on the cards to be another build after the step-up
http://www.swaylocks.com/comment/507625
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/rabbits-foot-attempt-and-simmons
Really like this thread mate its awesome.
im not sure if you can but have a look at my couple of threads.
EH!
Bring a quiver and double down on the fav’s.
Light and cheap=SNAAP…
hey slice, nice going.
Pieter Stockert makes some great boards in your area and is very giving with advice/ tips. You could maybe reach out to him and see if you could watch him do his stuff. http://www.pieter.com.au
Cheers
Zac
May actually change my destination but not sure where to yet… Too many flights being cancelled from the volcanic ash cloud.
Thanks Zac I’ll send him a email.
The silver line returned, the only thing different I did was push the lap edges in level with the foam and also after I applied the styrene to the edges I probably took longer before actually adding the resin… quite fustrating.
Well I’ve got a sacrificial seconds blank that I tested for different ways to cut lap and free lap on the other side (forgot to take a picture but might after I come back from work), the best for looks was a zipper cut with the blade bent in a u shape, lap rolled, then styrene added before glassed. With free lapping, I couldn’t even see where the bottom layer started, so with that I decided to freelap my next board (took some time to cut any hanging stands) and it came out great.
Accidentally cut the fin box in the wrong spot on the right side so I used some of that carbon/innegra tape which covered up the mistake but looks a bit odd overall. New adjustable glassing stand and room coming along nicely.
Rad thread Slice!
Was spraying the blank and had the board sitting up right in a bucket but then realised I put dings in the rail, but nothing the trusty iron couldn’t fix… Was a great tip from swaylocks!
