…While in the concrete supplies area of Home Depot, I found .25" x 3.5" x 10’ rough sawn cedar “bender board” for $1.95 ea…I selected 26 sticks, mostly clear, and had them planed to .125"… …My upcoming “labor of love” is to build either a 9’ traditional longboard or maybe an 8’6" gun…It will of course be hollow, with laminated .125" baltic birch stringers and cross ribs(webbed out to reduce weight)… …What’cha think??? Paul
Bro, I want to build one too. It would be really cool of you to share your plans, materials list,etc. on this site or e-mail. The goal is to make something suitable to hang but I’ll ride that baby at ‘bu on a nice south. mahalo. …While in the concrete supplies area of Home Depot, I found .25" x > 3.5" x 10’ rough sawn cedar “bender board” for $1.95 ea…I > selected 26 sticks, mostly clear, and had them planed to .125"…>>> …My upcoming “labor of love” is to build either a 9’ > traditional longboard or maybe an 8’6" gun…It will of course be > hollow, with laminated .125" baltic birch stringers and cross > ribs(webbed out to reduce weight)…>>> …What’cha think???>>> Paul
Please share plans for this project as i am having real problems get hold of Wooden surfboard plans in the UK. Or failing that i would be will to purchase a set from you. Saul …While in the concrete supplies area of Home Depot, I found .25" x > 3.5" x 10’ rough sawn cedar “bender board” for $1.95 ea…I > selected 26 sticks, mostly clear, and had them planed to .125"…>>> …My upcoming “labor of love” is to build either a 9’ > traditional longboard or maybe an 8’6" gun…It will of course be > hollow, with laminated .125" baltic birch stringers and cross > ribs(webbed out to reduce weight)…>>> …What’cha think???>>> Paul
…Plans??? What plans??? I’m making it up as I go along…“We don’t need no stinking plans”… Paul
Paul, After looking at your skateboards and fins I am very interested in seeing the finished project. You are a craftsman. How did you have the bender boards planed? Did the Depot do it for you or did you do it yourself? Thanks, Magoo
Paul, After looking at your skateboards and fins I am very interested in seeing the finished project. You are a craftsman. How did you have the bender boards planed? Did the Depot do it for you or did you do it yourself? Thanks, Magoo
Paul,>>> After looking at your skateboards and fins I am very interested in seeing > the finished project. You are a craftsman.>>> How did you have the bender boards planed? Did the Depot do it for you or > did you do it yourself?>>> Thanks, Magoo …I had my local door shop run it through their stationary planer…another option was for them to run it through their thicknessing sander, but they felt the planer would do a better job…the stuff looks great…I’ll start that board soon…I’m still working this one through in my mind…I don’t want a “kook box” but something with shaped rails and rocker… Paul
I don’t want a “kook box” but something with shaped > rails and rocker…>>> Paul Hi Paul. I’ve done something very similar to what you propose. I have built a 7’5" mini longboard. It has a very full nose with concave for nose riding, is 24.5" wide and 3.25" thick. Has some decent V in the tail as well. As I haven’t quite finished the glass work (still have to do the sanding and gloss coats)I’m not sure how it will surf. I will tell you this though…start working out your carrying arm…these hollow wood boards are not light-weight! Give me an email and I will give you any advice or ideas I can about designing the stringer and rib templates, rails, etc. Later D
Give me an email and I will give you any advice or ideas I can about > designing the stringer and rib templates, rails, etc.>>> Later D …Thanks D… …Here’s my e:mail...goofyfoot@thurston.com …PaulJensen
I don’t want a “kook box” but something with shaped>>> Hi Paul.>>> I’ve done something very similar to what you propose. I have built a > 7’5" mini longboard. It has a very full nose with concave for nose > riding, is 24.5" wide and 3.25" thick. Has some decent V in the > tail as well.>>> As I haven’t quite finished the glass work (still have to do the sanding > and gloss coats)I’m not sure how it will surf.>>> I will tell you this though…start working out your carrying arm…these > hollow wood boards are not light-weight!>>> Give me an email and I will give you any advice or ideas I can about > designing the stringer and rib templates, rails, etc.>>> Later D Derek, Share your ideas bro, Paul got 70+ hits with his post so you have many interested parties looking in. How did you set up your rails? Did you use a different kind of wood (Balsa, Agave, or ?)?? How many cross braces did you use? Is there a ratio that you found worked the best? Sorry for all the Q’s but I find this very interesting. I am looking forward to your responses. Thanks, Magoo
Hi Guys. I didn’t realize how many people were interested in this sort of thing. As the process of design and construction of a hollow wooden board are quite lengthy, it would take some time to give a “play-by-play” of the whole project. I would like to document the project(have taken photos along the way)and make it a vailable for others to use, but I’m under the academic crunch of the end of a school year(I’m a grad student) and time isn’t something I have much of for the next two weeks. I’d be glad to answer any specific questions about how I did things, but if you want the whole story, it may have to wait till I can start writing it out in May. Maybe if there’s enough interest in the whole process, I could do up a complete guide with instructions on design and construction, suggested materials, photos, sample templates, etc. This of course would be a big process and may need some small monetary complensation…note on the word small…just enough to make it worth my time. I’m still up for answer more specific questions though! Later DQ
Hey Magoo. To answer your questions… I placed the ribs every 5 inches down the length to the striger. I used a notching technique that allows the three stringers of the board to lock into the ribs…these of course are marine epoxied together for strength…not too much epoxy though, that stuff can get heavy we you calculate how many joints there are. As for the rails…the ribs have the last inch and a half cut off and then have a 1/4" piece of wood attached to the end of the ribs, from nose to tail. What you have at this point is a Blake “kook box” without the skin. Once the board is skinned and trimmed, I laminated balsa to the flat, square rails and then shaped them down, carefully, with a hand planer…don’t use an electric here to save time…you’ll just end up crying…take the time…you’ll be glad you did. I will most likely end up doing a full documentation of the process from design to construction…should be done in May some time. Let me know if you’re interested This board makes for a great hobby project…something you can take your time to build…don’t expect to rip one of these off in one or two weekends! Seeya DQ
Hey Magoo.>>> To answer your questions…>>> I placed the ribs every 5 inches down the length to the striger. I used a > notching technique that allows the three stringers of the board to lock > into the ribs…these of course are marine epoxied together for > strength…not too much epoxy though, that stuff can get heavy we you > calculate how many joints there are.>>> As for the rails…the ribs have the last inch and a half cut off and then > have a 1/4" piece of wood attached to the end of the ribs, from nose > to tail. What you have at this point is a Blake “kook box” > without the skin. Once the board is skinned and trimmed, I laminated balsa > to the flat, square rails and then shaped them down, carefully, with a > hand planer…don’t use an electric here to save time…you’ll just end up > crying…take the time…you’ll be glad you did.>>> I will most likely end up doing a full documentation of the process from > design to construction…should be done in May some time. Let me know if > you’re interested>>> This board makes for a great hobby project…something you can take your > time to build…don’t expect to rip one of these off in one or two > weekends!>>> Seeya DQ post that info,it would be great. I think alot of people would like that. mark http://www.scottsurfdesigns.com
post that info,it would be great. I think alot of people would like that.>>> mark Same here, I would be very interested. Any information please post up. As to get detailed information on these old boards is very hard, You can find old photos but no information on number of ribs, rails, rocker etc…i think a lot has been lost over the years as Surfer’s from that Generation have died, wars, old age etc…Lets hope we can “rediscover” or that someone who has first-hand knowledge, is willing to share it so these boards aren’t only seen in books/museum’s but are surfed. Excuse, I’ll get off my Soapbox now… Saul
…I’m still in the working it out in my head stage…I’m thinkin’ three “chamberd” stringers with “chambered” ribs at 12" oc…The rails will be laminated to the ribs/stingers…I’m thinking that the rails will be built up to 1" in thickness prior to shaping…I’ll look to eliminate weight wherever I can, yet keep it surfable… The skin over this wooden skeleton will be the 1/8" cedar… I’ll rip it to 1" than fasten it one plank at a time with polyurethane glue, hopefolly no metal fasteners…After its “together”, I’ll sand and glass it…
This is basically what I had done…Except the ribs were every 5" with the secondary stringers 5" out from the center stringer. As for the “skin”…I used a 1/8" mahogany ply. Once you roughly cut the sheeting to shape, you can vacuum-bag the sheeting to the ribs/stringers…works great.>>> …I’m still in the working it out in my head stage…I’m thinkin’ three > “chamberd” stringers with “chambered” ribs at 12" > oc…The rails will be laminated to the ribs/stingers…I’m thinking that > the rails will be built up to 1" in thickness prior to shaping…I’ll > look to eliminate weight wherever I can, yet keep it surfable… The skin > over this wooden skeleton will be the 1/8" cedar… I’ll rip it to > 1" than fasten it one plank at a time with polyurethane glue, > hopefolly no metal fasteners…After its “together”, I’ll sand > and glass it…