What have you given up for the love of surfing?
“Food” I’m 48 and not ready to go to a longboard yet. Really I have changed my diet and run about 6 miles a day, all for surfing. My wife thinks I’m nuts but shes not complaining about the results.
most of my spare time and several better jobs in other states.
What have you given up for the love of surfing? Dale, I 've never viewed surfing from the perspective of sacrifice. Now, on reflection, I know why: I’ve given up nothing. I do what need be done to surf without evaluation or value judgement.
Dale, I 've never viewed surfing from the perspective of sacrifice. Now, > on reflection, I know why: I’ve given up nothing. I do what need be done > to surf without evaluation or value judgement. BBA, That
s the other side... just what I
d hoped to see. Hey, welcome to Swaylocks! Dale
Thousands of meaningless social gatherings. aloha, tom
As an 18 year old (now freshman at Cal Poly, SLO) I have given up LOTS of weekend parties for the love of the dawn patrol. It just doesn’t work to go hung over. Surfing is more important, and I feel like a pile of **** if I give it up because I wanted to party.
Thousands of meaningless social gatherings.>>> aloha, tom a job. a career. a family. a fucking big television, washing machines, cars, compact disc players and electrical tin openers. good health, low cholesterol, and dental insurance. fixed interest mortgage repayments. a starter home. your friends. leisurewear and matching luggage. a three-piece suite on hire purchase in a range of fucking fabrics. DIY and wondering who the fuck you are on a Sunday morning. sitting on that couch watching mind-numbing, spirit-crushing game shows, stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth. rotting away at the end of it all, pishing your last in a miserable home, nothing more than an embarrasment to the selfish, fucked up brats you spawned to replace yourself. your future. life. sounds familiar?
What have you given up for the love of surfing? let’s just say when I was younger it was a problem for my ex wife and a few ex girlfriends-it was them or surfing.Looking back it was probably surfing that saved me from becoming committed and entangled in some dysfunctional relationships.
let’s just say when I was younger it was a problem for my ex wife and a > few ex girlfriends-it was them or surfing.Looking back it was probably > surfing that saved me from becoming committed and entangled in some > dysfunctional relationships. A law degree,but who wants to be stuck in a court room all day,No regrets. Aloha Kokua
What have you given up for the love of surfing? Whatever I have given up — be it a better job which would simply improve the cicumfrence of my ass — time away from chidren WHO now surf with me regularly ---- there has been no pain. Allow me to share what I witnessed today. I took 3 college students to the beach for the purpose of helping them learn some basics. All women , all jazzed uo over some movie called “blue something” Beutifull Maine fall afternoon with the usual onshore slop. I spent my time pushing them into some monster 1-2 foot GI Joe waves. When one of the women stopped, she looked dazed, got suddenly quiet and began weep. Okay I know what you “may” be thinking at this point. She told me that this was the FIRST time she had smiled and laughed since her fiance was murdered a year ago and had not realized how long it had been she had fun… Need I say more.
What have you given up for the love of surfing? No pain! nib