North Shore has a bump and there are waves!!! Small but fun! Its waking up here! Winter is right around the corner and pretty soon its gonna be waves all the time!!! I don’t want to drive to town anymore! I can’t wait to get drilled! I long for a long barrel!!! I need the adrenaline rush of our beloved North Shore!!! Its coming soon! SOON I TELL YA!!! Get your guns ready! Get your bodies ready! Get your minds ready! Its gonna be epic! Its ALWAYS EPIC!!! Buwahahahahahahahaha!!!
OK, the first small swells which actually started 5 days before this original post… I have to admit, it’s been up and down around 6-10’ faces and very fun! Nice to surf near home and get the “feel” of the waves as the North Shore slowly wakes from its slumber… No real power yet but still a very nice way to ease into the winter season… Random excerpts from my journal…
9-5-06 Tuesday * * * *
9’-4" SUP yellow green board…Lani’s 2-3’+ Perfect Glass with only Schwaa, Harold Iggy, Curt Mastalka for over an hour score!!!Stayed out for couple hours in perfect overhead waves…
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9-11-06 Monday * * *
Holtons and Jocko’s right - 9’-4" yellow green SUP-
Very fun, clean 2-3’+ coming up… nice rights and lefts. Alone and got around 15-20 great rights off Jocko’s on second session.
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9-12-06 Tuesday * * * *
Holtons solid, consistent 3-4’… 9’-4" YG board… Freight train rights from deep and lefts from Lani’s side very perfect! Board worked awesome. Best fun of the summer so far…Some waves were Epic for Holton’s… Score!!!
9-17-06 Sunday * * * * Extra long session…
Laniakea, Holton’s, Chun’s, Piddley’s, Outside Kamisugi’s, Right Overs. Biggest sets were 5’ at Holton’s. Some perfect
Lani’s screamers! Early morning Holton’s had some nice open solid sets almost making the Lanis connection… Paddled to Right Overs w/Derek & Gary. Fun…mellow waves there… Got some nice small peelers at Piddley’s on the way back and some at Chun’s… Talked story with Jock about…SUP, concaves, and other board design while waiting for sets at Holton’s… 9-4 YG SUP…
Yeah, it was great to get my feet wet up there after a long hot summer. I think I just might have missed you on Sunday morning, I saw Derek SUPaddling in as I was paddling out at Laniakea. For a little while it was just me, George Ku, Keoki Saguibo and Kimo Greene on the outside with a nice peak and wall on the boil. I’ve been really lazy shaping wise and had Makani McDonald make me a 6’0" fish which I just picked up last night, looks really sweet. Hard to say if he’s a better shaper or surfer, does both really well.
I surfed backdoor on ?saturday? maybe and it was really fun, the majority of sets were probably around the 6 ft. (faces) mark. It was relatively uncrowded, there were also waves in town I believe. Probably won’t get it like that again for a while.
Well, the North shore is now into its next stage of waking up… Its stretching now! Waves at select spots have reached 10’ Hawaiian size and conditions have been pretty much perfect!!! Stories from up and down the coast of perfection in the double overhead +++ range… Plenty storm activity, swells hitting as I write this. Its safe to say the season is officially open…
Today was the first day the ocean looked like winter with plenty water moving around… Currents were stronger than previous days… Stand Up Paddling definetly took a lot more concentration and the heart gets pumping when the sets start rolling in… Got my first decent beating today and had to climb my leash… Felt relaxed and handled fairly well although I did have a little, take 5, channel gag from the adrenaline… Ahhhh, yes… The season begins… Ahwoooooooooo!!!
Good to hear! I’m leaving for Kauai in just over a week. Trying to finish up a 6’2" and 6’6" EPS/epoxy for the the trip (posted pics earlier) but if the forecast looks promising the day I leave I’m pulling my semi-gun from the rafters.
Howzit Stinkbug, Since you are coming to Kauai you should go to Pine Trees and talk with the guy who parks his green school bus there, his name is Stinkbug also and has been for about 35 years. Aloha,Kokua
I’ll keep an eye out for him. With a big green school bus and a stinkbug stance he should be easy to spot on land or in the water! Hopefully he doesn’t come to swaylocks and want to use his name!
Howzit Brother Brose, Actually Stinkbug has lost some of his stink style over the years,used to be pretty bad back in the 70’s. So it was Kim who gave him the name. Aloha,Kokua
Howzit Brose, Never could figure out how the Chicken Wing moved from Hanalei over to outside of Middles. Still feel the name is more apprpriate for Hanalei due to the bend in the wave between the end of FLatrock and the Bowl, and that section of Hanalei no longer has a name. Did you enjoy the wake up call this morning, guess they ahd a few rock slides on the big island from the quake. CNN is all over this thing, guess the boys on the other islands can’t go online to Sways till the power comes back on. Aloha,Kokua
