Im on the road to building my dream log longboard (looking to pick up some of those lines that were dropped off in the late 60’s!)
A question:
For nose and tail blocks, what orientation should the wood be for easy shaping ?
any other tips for yound players? like when should I attach the blocks etc
depositing thanks into your swaylockian account right now.
I’ve not done a nose block yet but I have done a couple of tail blocks. For the tail block I hot-glue the rough shaped tail block on to the shaped blank. Once the glue is set put a couple of thicknesses of masking tape on the blank and start sanding. The tape will give you a “warning” when you are getting close.
I for one do not like hot glue. It has too much thickness. I like eather 5 min epoxy of supper glue. Once you have the nose/tail block attached you can use a hand plane to work it down. Using two layers of tape is a good idea, but a sander may be a little over kill unless you are using a glass tail block. Here is something that I have done. Buy a piece of lexan from Tap, they have some that will stand up to the resin. You can get colors sandwich between the wood. Makes for a tripy tail/nose block.
The orientation of the wood for easiest shaping should have the grain running perpendicular to the stringer. I think it’s best to preshape the tailblock before you glue it onto the blank. Final sanding and touch-up to be done after it is attached. I use 5 minute epoxy spread thinly on both surfaces, but kept away from the shaped edges of the blank. I only takes a little glue.
The only nose block I’ve done is one placed between a double stringer. The stringer spaced 1 1/8" apart. Basically the same procedure, only it fits tight between the wood of the stringers. Doug
I’ve seen past posts describing various ways. The way I like best is to shape the board to about 90% finished shape just prior to sanding. I make a jig to use my power skill saw with fine tooth finishing blade to cut the nose and tails off for the blocks. My jig is a 3/4" piece of plywood about 8" wide x 18" long with a 1/2" thick x 1"wide fence running the length against which my saw runs. Attach your fence with glue/screws and run your saw the length of the plywood jig cutting it to width. The outside edge is now exactly the line the saw will cut.
Adjust the saw for max. depth of cut. Square off a perfect line on your board and carefully clamp the jig on the deck of your board with the outside edge of the jig running along the marked line. Use padding, wedges, etc., so that you don’t mar the foam. The depot sells small rolls of rubber material used to line the drawers of tool chests which I like to use between the board and the jig which keeps it snug and deters it from sliding. The jig’s length allows you to get a long smooth cut with your saw running down the fence giving you a nice clean cut line on your board for your block.
I cut noseblock miters at about 32 - 38 degrees depending on the shape of the nose. Spend the time to square up and mark your saw cut lines on the nose. Attach the jig for one side of the nose cut then reposition it for the other cut. Keep your jig clamped flat on the deck of your board. I use 5 min epoxy and sometimes even 90 sec. epoxy to glue on the unfinished non-shaped blocks. Let it sit up for an hour or more. I use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with 36 grit wheel and CAREFULLY grind it down to shape. I’ve tried shaping the blocks on the bandsaw first, etc., but the grinder does the job in just a couple of minutes. Grind to as finished a shape as possible then clean up with cabinet rasps, block plane, sandpaper attached to wood block. Most guys apply tape on the foam along the glue line to ensure against sanding or grinding into the foam. Some guys resin the board first.
The secret is a clean saw cut for a pro glueline (hence the jig) and tight miters on the noseblocks. If you take a little extra time to measure, square, clamp the jig just right, etc., you’ll get it right on and be proud you went for it! Hard to beat that old-school classy look eh? For a peak of some burled redwood nose blocks on a balsa board: http://www.mccormickfinewoodworking.com/mc_surfboard_process11.htm
Hope that helps and hope yours turn out great!
2 or 3 issues ago in Longboard Mag. Rainbow sandals advertisement with an Art Brewer Photograph of Yater in his shop. Standing in the racks are some boards with tailblocks Shaped and unshaped, glued on (5 min.epoxy) w/ masking tape.
Up in the rafters is Lauran’s Brom fish.
curved strip laminated nose block on the gun
Each strip laminated to the next using the shaped blank as a jig. After
all pieces were laminated, the two sides were mitered at the end and
glued together. The “wishbone” was then laminated to board. Everything
was shaped to fit and then capped with an outer strip of redwood - also
shaped. I used a lot of strapping tape, gorilla glue and 5 minute epoxy
in the process.
Richard…
I just wanted to say what an outstanding web-site you have…
Good old retro soul…
John, Still another method to accomplish the job. A great look and a very beautiful job!
Paul, Whether we be retro guys or cutting edgers, your craftsmanship inspires, thanks.
I don’t hold a candle to most of the craftsmen in this thread, but I do have a pretty easy way to make/attach nose & tail blocks.
I shape the board as if its all foam. Glue up some blocks with wood glue. Then cut off the nose/tail nice & square. Trace the cutoff piece onto my laminated wood block. Cut the outline on the bandsaw. Clamp a belt sander upside-down to the workbench, turn it on, and ‘foil’ the block until it looks exactly like the cutoff piece of foam & stringer. The side where it was cut off should make a mirror image to the side of the block you’ll glue on. A good way to true up without hitting any foam.
Glue 'em on with 5-minute epoxy. Works on any wood or foam, no worries about adhesion or compatibility.
Here’s a few helpful hints.
When laying out the wood for the tailblock try to put together wood thta has contrast with one another. The easiest way toi do that is to alternate between light and dark woods…
The following link is to a great resource for wood that is extremely ideal for making tailblaocks. They sell all shapes and sizes and are great for mixing and matching wood types to get a a great looking tailbloack
http://www.midwestproducts.com/Balsa%20Basswood%20and%20More.htm
You need to order through the catalog to get the full variety. Most hobby stores will carry a small selection though.
Drew
John – As you and I have discussed, registration of the curved piece on both the top and bottom is a very unruly prospect. Couple this with lining up dead center on the center strip is even more tricky. Angle of attack while cutting the foam is where the experience comes into play w/ the more extreme nose rocker.
Your board is very nice, and I admire how you take on such challenges w/o vibrato. You’re the Man!
Pre making the noseblock is the only way to go, miter already glued. The foam is so easy to adjust, compared with trying to change the angle of the miter instead, just what I watched one of the “pro” shapers trying to do a week ago. Attempting to alter the miter by 1/2 degrees is insane, I cut the foam wide by about an 1/8" and with a few swipes with a stiff sanding block, tight fit. Always keep in mind, how can I make this easy on myself?
Jim, good reminder and ditto on miter already glued to tight and tidy, then cut the lines.
Drew, with access to a bandsaw or table saw and a woodworker who throws away “scraps” (door shops, cabinet shops, furniture makers, restorers, hardwood lumber outlets) you can also make your own nose and tailblocks from every wood imaginable in every kind of design without having to pay high prices for the fancy milled stuff.
I make fins and blocks from my furniture “scraps”, then my wife comes along behind and gathers the cute little multi-stringered glue-up scraps left over and cuts out little angel Christmas tree ornaments on the scroll saw. Throw aways become scraps, scraps begets fins and blocks, more scraps begets gifts, sawdust goes to the garden and begets flowers and palms… Who says surfers and shapers don’t make the world a better place?
It’s all part of enjoying the ride. Have a blessed Chrismas!
You want a wood that’s not too hard: don’t use oak, koa, even Douglas fir. Balsa and redwood are nice and light, easy to shape, and contast well. Cedar is okay, has kind of a yellowish to it. Pine is nice and light.
I shape the board, then cut off an oversize block from a stock piece about 3 feet long. Tape the foam, stick the block on with a mix of catalyzed PE lam resin and Qcell. Don’t shape too soon, you’ll knock it off the blank. I use my disc grinder with 60 grit, a finger plane, and sanding block with 100 grit.
Now I gotta resize some pics to post 'em…
Using the Midwest pre-milled stuff is actually very cheap. The sheets run from $2 - $5 for a sheet .25" thick by 3" width by 36" long. Naturally you need some thicker stock for the midsection. I go to a mill and get scraps.
That with the midwest stuff and I’ve spent maybe $20 and can get close 10 -15 tailblocks out of that. The midwest stuff is great becasue you can get strips in varying lengths in most woods. that way it is easy to mix and max wood types.
Drew
Howzit Honolulu, Hau works really good also and since it grows wild here it's also free. When doing wood tail blocks or noses I glass and hotcoat the board then cut off the area where the wood will be. Attach the wood with super glue and shape it, at this point I sand into the hot coat so I can glass the wood on and blend it into the shape. The best part of doing it this way is you don't run the risk of hiting the foam when shaping the wood, seems to work just fine .Aloha,Kokua
Thanks everyone. Thats fantastic.
Anyone else got a point of view, please post on from here!