While surfing a shore pounding hollow beach break, I noticed that after
making the drop backside into the pit, the tail wanted to drift out,
almost like it was finless.
I have another board almost identical but it doesn’t have this tendency.
There are some subtle differences, but mainly, its nose width and
nose rocker. Fins, rails, thickness, tail rocker are all identical.
The “problem†board has slightly more nose rocker – 6†versus 5 ¼†–
than the old reliable. Its rocker, since it is greater, extends a little
further back toward the tail.
Part of the problem might (almost certainly) is me. On by backside
take-off, I am extremely front legged. I tend to crouch almost
completely over my front leg, with a rear drop knee stance. I end
up putting all my weight on the front of the board. This is great for
getting down the face, but causes the problem at the bottom. No
weight on the fins, so they tend to drift out.
What I’m thinking is, if I push the apex of the nose rocker forward,
and extend the flatter area, would this help? The down side is the
nose rocker would be steeper. What would the trade-off be? Steeper
nose rocker would paddle slower, but longer flat spot would paddle
faster. Once up and riding with the nose rocker out of the water,
would the flat spot make the board too stiff?