OK, I’ve been pondering for some time now how to modify a classic PU blank noserider design to work with a eps/basla compsand construction.
Now with the Clark issue this design topic seems even more timely…
When you go to a reduced weight noserider, what design changes should be made?
I was wanting to build a classic single fin noserider. I was going to work with a reveresed rocker 10’1"Y but now it will be an EPS/Balsa sandwich project.
Particular questions that come to mind:
should the rocker change?
should the template change?
Is flex a good think in a classic/single fin noserider? (like in a short board; I would not think a classic noserider would have much flex)
One thought I had was a heavy tail block. The thought was to help hold the tail down and help it lock in. Maybe zebra or koa? would the uneven weight distribution be good or bad?
The board was to be a 10’x18"(n)x24"(wp)x16"(t)x8"(pod) square tail with the WP about 1/3rd from the tail. A soft railer with down at the nose, 50/50 through the middle and up in the tail. Good amount of tail kick (reversed rocker 10’1"Y).
So what changes should I make for the material change?
I wrote this up before but I my current board (a Bert’s brettboard clone) noserides exceptionally well. I really think that the flex the thin eps boards helps to hold it in the wave (I got this idea from something GL had mentioned). I had already cut out two 10 foot Yater blanks (before I surfed this board) and I don’t plan on using them (I’m going to recut them into brettboard rockers). A few tips that Bert posted over time were:
increase the length that the rails run parallel (never explained why but his shapes use this and it works)
Keep the rails relatively hard in the nose ( it helps to shed water quicker thus improving planning)
Thanks DanB. I consider the releasing nose area rails and parallel rails to be standard noserider features. I remember Bert saying he does not use tail kick, but don’t know what he does instead. I want a square tail single fin.
Anyone else got ideas on what should change in design w.r.t. material change for a noserider. I’ve been following all the shortboard design vs material/construction method, but there has not been much talk about longboard design vs material/construction.
You could use a heavier density EPS blank and heavier glassing scedule, that’ll give the heft of a traditional log. Adding balsa will give you a nice cosmetic look, too.
If yo want light weight, then 1# core plus balsa would probably give you a really nice high performance board if the shape/foil/rocker are appropriate.
I use tail kick with the single fins, but concave the first & last 18" or so of the deck, moving to a dome right in the middle. Lets the ends flex - stays engaged much better - but puts volume where I like it. I knee paddle a lot…
I use tail kick with the single fins, but concave the first & last 18" or so of the deck, moving to a dome right in the middle. Lets the ends flex - stays engaged much better - but puts volume where I like it. I knee paddle a lot...
Benny,
how thick are you making your balsa sandwiches? (foam/skins)
how much concave? (in the nose/tail deck)
What bottom contours are you doing? (flat)
other than allowing for flex are you making any other design changes because of material/construction that would differe from a PU/PE noserider?
Its pretty much all by the ol’ eyeball at this point. I know - and can see - just enough to be dangerous Sorry, no real measurements or anything - just guesses.
Lessee, I’ll try a few things. Center of the board, where the deck is domed, is 3 1/8" thick. The blank was glued from 4 6" wide pieces, and the glue lines were the doming guide. I guess I probebly took 1/2 - 3/4" of volume out, at the edges before putting on the balsa rails, from the outside glue lines to the edge. The balsa skins are 1/16" wood plus 4 oz above & below, so I bet the blank was about 2 3/4 before the skins went on? That’s probably the middle 5-6’. It tapers down front & back to just a very slight deck concave fore & aft, you can only see it if you look very closely. Under the nose, almost a hint of a concave, but really more of a flat spot. The rest has just the slightest belly - not a bulge but a faint rail-to-rail curve. Maybe 1/8" bigger in the center than the sides.
There’s carbon cloth under the deck balsa for protection from my knees & stiffness in the deck side. That worked like a champ.
I went a little narrower on the tail than I would for a poly noserider - like 16" rather than 16 1/2" - but its not significant. You can get a single fin traditional to turn with either tail rocker or shape or fin & I do a little of all, not anything exaggerated.
Easy curves, make it look nice & it’ll go nice.
Oh yeah, bottom then rails then deck is the way to go for strength & boiiing. On others, I’ve done both skins & then the rails and its not the same.
If you want a good noserider heavier is better. Down rail in nose, 50/50 in middle, high line in tail. Try to keep the rails more parallel to help it track. Don’t go to much rocker, you want a little flip but only in the last 18" or so of the blank. If the rocker starts to far from the middle it will be like an anchor.
Sorry, no real measurements or anything - just guesses.