since monday I think The national weather service has been Hyping “THE FIRST SIGNIFICANT SWELL OF THE SEASON” a normal state of affairs. … looking every day all week and little indication of urf…today surf out the back down the street at my most conveinient Indicator…having already called dave and he was going to check black rock…I returned home to hear the phone from outside …I knew it was dave,subsequently called him up and the black rock was getting 1/2 the swell that was hitting down the street …the inconsistant and bump nature of the morning swell
made black rock the call… got there and it wasn’t much and chose the neumatic …the paddle out was educational the rip was running well and quick down to the peak paddling and kicking with gusto…the sets were slow in coming andbut an occasional 3 footer ( as the tide dropped more reef shallower made more waves break thats 8-830 by 930 its a foot more and breaking 50-75 feet further out an a foot bigger… went in got the 11’ers and went back out a couple waves ,6or 8 waves and tired and wanna take a nap and food break …more this afternoon afternoon …tomorrow is anothr story… ambrose…