I just had a talk with a friend of mine who swore that you can’t use RR Epoxy with a “normal” (non EPS) blank…I’m under the impression that it’s fine, correct? Sure hope so, cause I’m about 30 minutes away from doing it.
Go ahead, epoxy can be used with anything. Polyester can’t be used on EPS but epoxy can be used either on EPS or PU.
Perfect thanks…Here we go!
One more thing…I read the Epoxy Primer, but didn’t see any mention of lamintates. Do I just put my laminate down underneath the cloth on the bottom and betwen the layers on the deck like usual?
yeah, man…same ol’ routine…no worries.
i’ve used RR on clark and walker…came out great.
Ok, LAAAAAAST question. For now 
Since it;s my first time, and I alaways run into the problem of not having enough resin when laminating, after reading the Epoxy Primer, I’m going to use 32oz. of Resin, 16oz. of hardener, and 16cc’s of Additive F for the bottom of the board. Since I’m using additive F, do I then need to sand the entire bottom and deck (after the whole board is laminated) before I put on the next layer (hotcoat/filler coat) of resin?
first off, with epoxy, you can add more as you’re laminating if you run out. epoxy doesn’t “gel” the way polyester resin does. instead it gradually thickens over time until first it becomes unworkable, and ultimately hardens to a flippable cure. if you’re doing a clear lam, don’t worry so much about running out…you can always mix up more.
also, if you expect to have some resin left over, have a use for it on standby – why waste resin?! after seeing Austin’s resin tailblocks, i’ve started to keep a couple tail block molds lying around. that way, after doing any resin work, i can add the color of my choice to whatever resin is leftover, and then pour a layer into the mold. you can also have some glass strips lying around for making your own boxed fins. or, pretty much anything else you can think of.
as for sanding before hotcoat…not necessary. you’re best bet is to do a cheater coat. lam the bottom as normal. then lam the deck. when the deck has semi-cured (no longer workable, but not really flipable yet), spread on a thin layer of hotcoat resin. you’ll get a better hotcoat. then, when that’s cured, flip and hotocat the bottom as normal.
I’m not sure about Safari blanks, but I did two Clark’s with RR and they both got soft. Some Swaylockians and other shapers locally have said RR and Clark foam is a no no because of a reaction between the epoxy and something in Clark’s formula.
On mine it took about a month before the softening started to show, but now on one of the boards the foam right under the lam is so soft you can easily push it in with finger pressure.
Could it be that some Clark’s are ok and others are not?
Anyway, it’s going to RR and EPS, or Polyester and Polyurethane for me from now on. Doug
i’ve glassed several Clark’s and a Walker with RR and never had any problems. the first Clark i ever glassed with RR was about 2 years ago – that board lives in the owner’s car, gets ridden every time the ocean gives him a reason, and shows no signs of foam failure or delam anywhere. it was Clark “Superblue” foam glassed with 2x6 deck, 6 bottom + 4 tail patch.
LAm both deck layers at once, just like Poly too? First one just past the rail, second one wrapping around??
yep…unless i’m doing a tint…in which case i’ll do the tint in 1 layer, and then a second layer clear.