pau…aloha and mahalo!
Happiness in surfing is having a vision of how you want to ride the wave, one thats sympathetically in touch with reality.
Lance had that, when other were searching for something new.
Some buddies met him last week & watched him shape.
A boogie board !
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one thing too-many-board-itis has taught me
is there is tremendous amount of ego driven BS in all aspects of the world of surfing
80% fantasy
20% real
outside of what actually happens in the water
its pretty much a world of illusions
The more I try and be open minded about things
the more skeptical I become with what I find
Only when it no longer is just about what’s termed today as surfing
does it really seem to have any value.
somehow my mental vision of surfing a wave got stuck on lance carson as a youth and never broke free…
Bernie,
Don’t you mean 90% fantasy? ha ha. Once you have a board that floats you properly, responds to your surfing and holds in on good waves…you will eliminate 90% of the crap out there today.
Naw,not really.
I have a narrow stance and can ride anything.
They say that there’s a fine line between genius and idiot. I say there is no line. How can one be so smart and yet so dumb.
It’s not the board, it’s the combination of surfer, board and wave.
You need a decent wave to ride first. Then you need to be a decent to good surfer. Finally a good board will always be more fun than a bad one. When you ride crappy small waves 90 percent of the time, it’s hard to figure out if the board is good or bad.
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They say that there’s a fine line between genius and idiot. I say there is no line. How can one be so smart and yet so dumb.
It’s not the board, it’s the combination of surfer, board and wave.
You need a decent wave to ride first. Then you need to be a decent to good surfer. Finally a good board will always be more fun than a bad one. When you ride crappy small waves 90 percent of the time, it’s hard to figure out if the board is good or bad.
Slater can go out on anything and probably end up in the top three if judged fairly. Good surfers can ride anything…good…on any condtion. Onuela is right…it’s mostly fantasy anyway.
I like my narrow stance!
Its weird only when setting up a snowboard. I have to get big wide boards for my weight & foot size. Some of them aren’t even drilled as narrow as I’d like to ride them. I ride a 172 with the basic spread of a 155.
But it feels right, so I don’t mess with it. Same with surfing.
Plus, I’m a spastic cross-stepper. Taking little ones works better than big ones 
What’s a thruster?
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Slater can go out on anything and probably end up in the top three if judged fairly. Good surfers can ride anything…good…on any condtion. Onuela is right…it’s mostly fantasy anyway.
I’d bet that the better longboarders here in Hawaii would smoke Slater on a longboard in big surf. I think he is way ahead of anyone else on shortboards, but longboards are different. Maybe he should move to longboards and give the other guys a chance.
I think Rasta can go out on anything in any wave and look good. Oneula can go out on the best day of the year, on the best board there is, and still look like Terry Fitzgerald, except with out the hair, and more fat on his body.
I found my widepoint-forward pintail bonzer loved a shoulder-width and narrower stance, and turned into a dog (for me at least) when I tried to open up my stance to get more leverage. But shoulder-width and below, look out!
was watching some video of Donovan Frankenreiter (spelling?) last night.
he’s got a really narrow stance. i’ve heard he likes to ride single fin wp forward
gunny boards but he obviously rips on a shortboard too. i was pretty shocked
at how narrow his stance on a standard thruster was.