just seems like a “young punk” to “us” , I guess ?
… remember when WE were “under 30” , [or whatever] , and everyone over 30 [or whatever] was an "old man ?!
well, now I’ve become that “old man” … hehe…
and anyone like Greenough who tinkers a bit with stuff was perceived as a “mad scientist type” [well , to them , even I might be perceived that way ?? haha]
In fact , to some of the 20 year olds I surf with , I’m just a bit of ocean going driftwood [a “fish freak” , if you will !] for them to paddle around and drop in on . [I can remember thinking the same when <span style=“font-style:italic”>I</span> was 20 . I remember …just…]
I dunno , for some reason it just struck me as a really funny comment … I guess you just had to be there, eh ? … "an aussie moment ! " , I suppose ? ]
hey Ben, guess it’s always seemed normal to me having ridden singles from a young age and meeting Andrew when i was 17 and he was 27. we just got along really well and were into the same stuff, i never really noticed that to some it may have seemed a bit different.
maybe i should get a thruster, but i don’t think i could ride one??
what’s cool about Sways is how guys like Josh , Scott Mucci, Deathfrog and other 'young ones ’ don’t mind hanging out here with older crew and soaking up the experience and knowledge here . I commend them for it . “Wish I’d had something like this site [and a computer ?] available when I was their age”…
I ran into a guy Friday at Orchidland surfshop in Hilo whom the owner claimed was in his late 70’s early 80’s. Both of them had just got back from surfing Honolii in the morning…
Best part was that he was riding a surftech short board under 7’0" even though he had a new Haut on the way. This guy had been everywhere and new everyone used to own the surfshop next to Kammies way way back…
That was inspirational… made me think of woody brown and his 10’+ Ole with his cord lashed around his waste. Here was a guy around the same age surfing stuff way shorter than most guys in their forties half his age…
So there’s hope for us half centurians after all chippy…
Let’s hear one for guys nearing 60 that can still ride’em short and refuse to give in to the evil temptations of length and floatation.
Old men? maybe, but unlike beer. cognac and scotch gets better with age
One I heard from Maggot, an old Sydneysider goofy named Michael Burgess, last seen surfing shortboards and living in a tent on Reunion, who knows where he is now…
…Old age and treachery beats youth and enthusiasm.
