What are the current shaping trends (if that really matters) for standard big guy shorties on the south shore?
Im interested in common rocker themes (relaxed or curvy) or measurements, typical bottom contour (are single concaves common), if any, and width(s), thickness for boards in the 6’6 to 6’8 range made for a 215lb 40 y/o surfer surfing the breaks at and around Kaisers, going mostly left.
For a speed/performance oriented board, is this advisable:
Semi-curvy squash or round pin (JC’s sean moody model comes to mind)
6’6-8 x 19.25+ x 2.6
very smooth relaxed rocker, 2.25 tail rocker, 5 nose (basically a std R blank)
medium (1/8") single concave peaking between the feet
flat or slight vee behind the front fins
medium-thin soft rails center & front half
large, long-base fins for added drive and control (TC Redlines or Rusty) with medium toein
Big mahalo in advance!
Additional background info……only if youre bored
I’ve got a good friend who lives in Honolulu and is an avid longtime shortboader, 6ft 215lb, 40y/o and surfs mostly in the Kaisers area. He owns a good quiver of mostly big guy shorties in the 6’6 to 6’9 range. He was very disappointed with a recent custom shape…he complained of having too much vee in the board (almost the entire length) which he claimed caused him to get hungup near the top when trying to paddle into waves. This board is 6’6 x 2.5 thick x width???. Amazingly he uses very small fins like G3 or G5s sizes…???
I’ve watched him surf for more than twenty years and IMO, he has always used too small a board (width and thickness) for his size…the result is below average speed…his board seems to be too much under the water while surfing. But he is very stubborn and is cautious heeding my advice which is basically more volume, less rocker and more width. When I visit Honolulu (from FL) I immediately noticed that most boards have racier shapes, i.e., narrower (yes there is more power on the SS!). I rode one of his 6’9s and it was only 18 ¾ wide…vary narrow for my taste but functional. However, I weigh a lot less at 175lb. Mahalo again!