So - Happy post easter for what it means to you… get to work and read some sorry stuff about fins and who made what and where ya from etc. etc…
I got up on sunday here in Oregon usa to hear the was a 5’ @ 19" swell out of the NW, so with the south wind, low tide, there should be some wave at a near by reef in a little “bay” which faces NW.
I take my 8’ “daily rider” (as many here refer…) as I recon there’ll be some OH sets, and I’ve been out of the water most of the last two months.
To keep this board related: I made the board “from scratch” - 2lb eps, hot wired, made the stringer out of 3/4’ cedar, RR, tri fin, some belly on the deck, in the nose bottom, and a serious tail kick… been working great for a couple years now.
There ends up being four others out all on 6’4"'s… two are regulars who sit on the inside/second bowl… I grew up surfing there, and sitting on the main/outside/first peak… The other two are long time friends of mine. I’m 45, and the rest of them are late 20’s to 30’s.
The reef is what I call a finger which sticks out into the little bay and the wave peaks up and sucks off nice and thick and round then reels off down the reef for 40 yards .
So, I’m patiently waiting… try to back out of the first one, get sucked in, over, around, and way inside… far enough on the other side of ther reef I ride the white water in and climb out the back side of the reef and do it again…
Well - I finally get one, and as I pull in the second bowl I take it on the head…
Next two work out very well, and my youngerish buddies are stoked - as am I. The next I get sideways in the bowl on take off… side slipping, then on the back sliding down the face in the hole, over the falls etc… still stoked, get a few more, and call it a day.
The two regulars are gone - there usually a bit grumpy, as they mostly ride the inside bowl, and seem to be bummed when I go set out in the main peak - what they don’t know is I grew up there, that way, long before they knew… well, you know. But, the yougerish buddies, and one who watched from above, are stoke on my “charging…” Ha! Just the way to surf it I say.
“Every dog has his day.” As one of them says… As I’m motoring home with another (Saving my beloved woman a trip, but that’s another story.) he’s teasing me for getting better waves than him, and saying next time he’ll bring a bigger board.
All in all, not a bad way to spend a sunday around high noon.
By the way, did I mention I made the board??? Ha! Much thanks to Sways!
“If only I’d patented the leash$$$” Ha!