Opaque Black Resin

Hello all,

I am fairly new to the board building experience, I did a few last summer - some with air brushing and even a fabric inlay - and they came out pretty well. I just got some new supplies and plan on making a new long board for myself. I’d like to do a an opaque black lamination and some lighter (orange or white) patches on the deck.

I’ve watched the Master Glasser - DVD and in theory ( I understand that is a long way from practical application) understand what needs to get done for the colored lamination and the resin patches, I was however wondering, are there any pitfalls associated with doing a black board? Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thank you,


Black board in the sun soaks up mucho heat, which equals potential for a faster delam wherever the black paint/pgment is-

Thanks man, I understand the heat aspect. I guess what I was looking for were any particular problems with doing the actual lamination with a black opaque resin, any adive on ratios of pigemnet to resin, etc.

Black is an easy color to do. Every step in the lam, hot coat & gloss process put pigment in, that way you’ll get a true black board with no light bleed through. Or once you have it lammed & hot coated, you can spray it with black water based paint, then gloss it for a shine.

The problem with black boards besides the inevitable delamination from heat is the white ding spider cracks from all the bumps you get from transportation and what not. Plus if your a perfectionist, black is the most difficult to get baby butt flat. Any ripples, pocks, or bumps in your lam, hotcoat, glass will be way amplified with that dark non translucent color. Just like the difference between a black car, and one that is the color of metalic dirt.


So you want to do a black bottom…cutlap and the have the deck more like an acidsplash/ abstract?If thats the case let me know and I will tell you about some pitfalls and how to avoid them.

Yes Cleanlines,

That is exactly what I want to do. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

  • Bryce

Email us with your questions and we will be glad to answer them.


Well…I like what Resinhead said, he hits good points.If you can bear with me I will go for it.I built a 9’O" with black bottom.white deck,double pins plus a white pin on the bottom.So…1)Glass the bottom black cutlap.2)Trim laps and tape off for a white full deck inlay.Do the inlay(it can be an acid splash if you want) and trim the glass when it jells.3)Clean up the seam and get ready to glass the final deck layer with clear resin freelapped.You can add a logo at this point.Be super careful on the flipped laps because any bubbles or pin air will show up on the black.4)Tape off the rails and hotcoat the bottom with black resin(yep wax added).5)This is tricky…we are going to hotcoat the lap on the top.Tape off the rail and also the point where the two colors meet.Hotcoat the lap black and pull the rail tape when it gells.DO NOT pull the tape on the deck.When its dry hand sand the lap…use scotchbrite to dull any shiny spots.Clean it up and pull the tape.By pulling the tape last we kept the dust off of the still sticky deck.When this is all done go ahead and tape the deck and hotcoat as normal.You can now sand.pinline and clear gloss as normal.It worked really good for me.Hope it wasn’t too confusing.

Thanks, much Cleanlines. I plan to start shaping this weekend. As soon as I have a few pics, I’ll send them your way.

  • Bryce