Opaque cutlap

Is a cutlap for an opaque pigment necessary if I wanted the whole board one color (yellow). I’ve never done a cutlap before and i don’t know if i want to try one yet. Will the lap line be visible with an opaque if I do a free lap?

thank you, i’ve been searching the archives but most of the color issues deal with tints.

Howzit barrel, Depends on how good a glasser you are. A good glasser can cut the glass and laminate the board so it looks like a cut lap. This is one area that I was always got compliments on. customers would ask if I taped of the board and I would tell them no it's a free lap glass job. The hardest part is not fraying the ends or letting a strand float away from the rest of the glass.Aloha,Kokua

There’s several pro glassers on here that can give you the details,

but the short answer is that you can free-lap the first side, but not

the second.

Well, you CAN, but it won’t be pretty…

Mike

thanks kokua,

i guess i’ll be attepmting a cutlap tommorow

so after i have glassed the bottom, cut at the tape line, and sanded the lap line …

i can then tape on the lap line and glass the deck with a cutlap using one 6 oz. layer of opaque? Then after i finish that cutlap, i can do a free lap of clear 6 oz. on top?

just want to make sure i got it straight! Thanks!

Howzit barrel, I never sand the lap,I use a surform to take the lap down. The trick is to use the corner of the surform and try to use only 1 or 2 of the cutters, this way you only take the edge off. Aloha,Kokua

When I’m in the mood to use a sureform to take down the lap , I use a old convexed blade surey…no body , just the blade.

Watch it ! They all will hack up foam along the lap in a hurry , Take your time. Herb

i just got one of those curved-tooth files from Keith.

haven’t tried it yet (arrived today in the mail)…but i’m stoked to give it a shot. looks like i won’t be using a surform anymore to bring my laps down.

Howzit Herb, yep the convex sureforms work.I have used both types for taking down the laps with good results. By the way do you mean the one that is convex the length or width. By width, the little one with the plastic handle/holder, those are pretty cool since on side has cutting blades all the way to the edge,could be the best one. The only problem with sureforms here is they start to rust after the first use and cleaning them with acetone starts the rust even faster.Aloha,Kokua

They rust here too.Just not as fast, Mike.

I spray all my rustys with sillycone spray.It reduces the rustys.

For more of a lasting rust preventative ,I have this really toxic cr#p that was banned in the 80s that’s excellent.It actually fuses to and thru the metals.

Of course clear acrylic sprays work well to.

I have both + a file that convexed for foot callouses. Herb