Glassing guru’s. I painted a board on the foam red and black before glassing… what I got was bad red bleeding and some major crystallization in the lam phaze of glassing… So now I want to cover up the uck… I was thinking of either painting the whole board one color on the hot coat or can I do a solid opaque resin tint without cloth over the whole board. Is it possible to do a opaque gloss coat?
Ben
yes do opaqued gloss panels . thats how they do restoration when you only see the lam
Panels? not sure what you mean…sorry I am a bit slow… I have seen restoration done that way it looks good…thanks
Well, in fact it’s not an “opaque gloss coat” what you can add.
It’s an “opaque hot coat”-lightly sanded-then covered with a clear gloss coat-then polished.
Something like this:
Full process here:
http://www.classicbingsurfboards.com/pages/7/index.htm
Hi Ben,
Opaque hotcoats are pretty sketchy in getting good even coverage, and get worse after sanding in prep for the gloss. I’ve had good results on restorations using: (1) Re-laminating using opaque pigment on 4 oz cloth + same color hotcoat + clear gloss (2) Acrylic paint + 2 or 4 oz clear lam + clear gloss (no hot coat). I use method #1 if weight isn’t important and #2 if it is. #2 requires a smooth, even lam since you can’t sand the gloss like a hotcoat. Some name-brand boards are painted over the hotcoat then glossed. These become a easily scratched and look like hell in a short time. I can also confirm that they’re a bitch to blend repairs into. If you just want to sell the board and don’t care, the easiest route is paint under a glosscoat.
DON’T attempt to do just an opaque hotcoat. You’ll never sand it evenly, and the uneven-ness will look like crap. Ask me how I know. I’ll admit that I have done opaque hotcoats because a colored lam went off too soon. But I fully sanded them and laid a heavily colored finish coat on. Added some weight, I tell you.
HOWEVER… it might be do-able if it’s over a splotchy crystallized colored foam, as the double colors may be sufficient to achieve an opaque result. I dunno, and don’t like the idea.
Think: resin is made to be resin. It’s made clear. Pigments and tints have to subtract something from strength. Resin isn’t made (IMHO) to carry the pigment load needed for opaque, particulary with recent-production pigments that can’t use the most effective (and frequently quite hazardous) coloring agents that were once made, and are no longer considered safe.
There’s another product, with a huge industry and all kinds of research money, that makes a product meant for opaque coatings. They call their product PAINT, and there are LOTSA big-money commercial marine uses for it. So think to use something that’s actually made for your end use…
I’d like to think that a good marine epoxy is the solution to the need for an opaque but glossy finish. However, my little brother once brush-painted a small sailboat hull with marine epoxy, and couldn’t get rid of the brush stroke marks. I think his technique was probably poor, in that he probably used too little paint, and kept at it for too long, so the epoxy didn’t flow out. He also commented that the product he used set pretty quick. Sorry I can’t remember what he used, this was quite some years ago. Think too the following 6P mantra: Proper Preparation Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.
As a previous post pointed out ; They call it paint. Hotcoat the board and sand it. Do a good job sanding(no scratches). Paint over the hotcoat. Honestly most of the time I just use regular old acrylic house paint. Once you got it painted, gloss-coat the board . Wet and dry sand and polish. If you wet and dry by hand you’ll be less inclined to burn thru your gloss and damage your paint. Just wet and dry by hand with a bucket of water. You can also buy automotive paint(Omni or PPG) and paint the board ala Surftech and then spray on a polyurethane clearcoat. When I am doing restorations I usally will tape-off and paint a traditional looking color scheme and then laminate a layer of clear 4oz. over the painted board. Hotcoat sand and gloss. The little bit of weight added by the 4oz. doesn’t matter when you are restoring a 60’s wall hanger. I understand that you are not restoring an old board, but rather trying to cover up a mistake on a recently shaped and lammed blank. The above mentioned techniques will work for that purpose as well. McDing
Ben,
I’ve done them both ways as mentioned below. Here a sample of a colored hot coat covered with gloss i did a while back. The trick is to make sure the board is flat, that shouldn’t be an issue since its new. Colored hot coat & gloss will add lots of weight, like about 20 oz of resin heavy. It might be better to spray the board with acrylic paint, Delta or Apple Barrel, then gloss it out, only adds about 9 oz of gloss. Trick is to get a perfect gloss, If you do get lots of zits and bugs don’t chase them down to flatness when sanding or you’ll burn through the color. But if you do burn through, just spray the spot and regloss, it blends perfectly.
Jay
