I have a question about the outline of a board and the wave catching characteristics–when looking at shape, how much of the length of the board is actually involved in wave catching–in other words, can a board with a narrow nose still be a good wave catcher? Is thickness more important than outline in this area? I am looking for a shape that will allow good wave catching characteristics coupled with manueverability(?) As a youngster, I rode very short, very thin boards successfully but as I got older I gravitated towards long boards due to ease of paddling since I wasn’t able to surf as much for a variety of reasons. I am now 52 years old and surfing a lot again. I am in good shape but do not want to have a board that makes wave catching so hard that my name could become “Bob”-if you know what I mean. I am looking for something in the 8 ft range with a narrow nose so that I can easily duck dive the many closeouts we have in northern California–Any information would be appreciated
I have a question about the outline of a board and the wave catching > characteristics–when looking at shape, how much of the length of the > board is actually involved in wave catching–in other words, can a board > with a narrow nose still be a good wave catcher? Is thickness more > important than outline in this area? I am looking for a shape that will > allow good wave catching characteristics coupled with manueverability(?) > As a youngster, I rode very short, very thin boards successfully but as I > got older I gravitated towards long boards due to ease of paddling since I > wasn’t able to surf as much for a variety of reasons. I am now 52 years > old and surfing a lot again. I am in good shape but do not want to have a > board that makes wave catching so hard that my name could become > “Bob”-if you know what I mean. I am looking for something in the > 8 ft range with a narrow nose so that I can easily duck dive the many > closeouts we have in northern California–Any information would be > appreciated Absolutely. The wider the tail, the easier you catch waves. However, for those hollow juicy waves you need to be able to turn from the top as you drop in. My solution is to combine at least a 14.7" wide tail (12" length) with a narrow stern (rounded pin to 3" square). Ride it with a 2+1 setup. I like a center 8" cutaway and 3" side bites. The setup gives you control during the drop without too much paddling resistance. It also curtails carves a little, so get plenty of rocker and turning V. It works.
You might also consider pushing your centerpoint and foil a couple of inches forward of center. This will put a little more foam under your torso without making the board difficult to turn.
There are a lot of tricks to make a board catch waves more easily. However, most have a “pay back” when you are up and riding. Slight changes in your design may be your best bet. I would suggest, in order of what I would do: Make the rail slightly thicker - about 1/8th" and a little boxy above the bottom tuck. Relax the nose rocker – easy way to do this is get a blank that is about 4 inches larger than your finished shape. Start your outline at the very end of the usable tail so that the 4" comes off the nose. Thin the nose and draw the rocker back in more from the middle of the board, A little more volume – about a 1/4" on center. Increase the nose and middle measurements (pretty obvious - but you want a narrow board so this may not be your trip) Relax the outline curve through the center of the board so the rails are a little more paralell. Depending on how much more paddling prowess you need, just one of these may do the job. Or, the whole shoot’n match is called for. Remember subtle changes are key. Radical new fandalangled super con caved asymmetrical fin less doubled convex channeled partially hydrolyzed aerospace composite skin boards and the like will probably be a bad idea. That’s just my opinion. Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine
D.barry - All of these ideas make sense. I feel that wide noses and/or concave noses make take offs more difficult, especially in any kind of off-shore winds. I have a couple of boards with a little roll or “belly” through the forward bottom sections that seem to drop right in.
DAANG! You Guy’s are good! Great advice! I am a lousy paddler because of a bad back and have spent a lot of time tuning my boards to be better than average wave catchers and still handle a lot of different conditions. Many of the tips you mentioned I have used with good results.
I’ve had pretty good success so far with my boards being good paddlers/wave-magnets, and in my view it’s because I actually put my wide points about a foot fore of center…and my wide points are pretty wide. I think if you want to save muscle getting into waves, get/make a wide board, like 23 in. wide or more with that wide point plenty fore of center. Plus a wide tail, as mentioned. Then narrow your nose as much as you want. I also second the motion on excluding concave under your nose.