Overshaping your nose

This is to all the rookies out there, like me. Id like to share something. I always over shape the nose, every single time i go chasing my outline. I finally figured something out.

I will share pictues.

Get your shapers square. Pinpoint the area of the nose where the outline is equal on both sides, and then work your way up towards the tip of the nose. Place the square where you get a solid number (1,2,3 etc.) on the “fatter” side of the nose. Measure in one inch increments at a time and mark on the fat side where the shaper square is marked out on the “skinny” side. When your done, you have a perfect mirror of the over shaped side. Sand until you meet the lines. Just something I wanted to share, because I am constantly chasing my outline and it can get so annoying.
I hope this helps someone.

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Thank you! For a rookie like me, it’s a real challenge to keep the simetry.

Don’t touch your outline until the very end.

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Wouldn’t you want to correct your outline before your rail bands?

If the banding does not cross the apex, the outline would still be there, just not at the top or bottom of the blank.

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So are you guys suggesting you finish perfecting your outline during the screening of the rails? To me that seems like trouble.

Just overshaped the nose on my last board. I love this timely suggestion. Gotta get me a grease pencil for my square… thanks for the tip

  1. Have a perfect outline with a 90 degree to bottom plan shape.
  2. Even when finishing the rails you should avoid screening the planshape edge except for very very fine sanding, two light passes at the most.
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Years ago I had problems maintaining my outline symmetry. I was complaining about it to a well known Santa Cruz shaper. He told me to not cut my outline until I had roughed out the deck and bottom. The longer you can wait to template your blank the less opportunity to screw it up. If you want to get a handle on this, I recommend watching the Ben Aipa shaping video that Fiberglass Hawaii did. Just google Ben Aipa YouTube. Ben is showing off a bit in that video by completely finishing the bottom and signing it. I take a cut down the stringer top and bottom, then start to rough out and flatten the bottom. The cut down the stringer gives me a thickness measurement to work from. I then do the same to the deck. Although I know that I could wait even longer, I usually layout and cut my template on the bottom at this time. True up my template and mark my rails. From there I can turn my rails. Bottom first because the bottom rail line doesn’t go beyond the apex. By doing it this way I am maintaining my outline. Turn the deck rail and my board is ready to be finished. Put in any concave and bottom contours. Sand and screen. Be sure to check your outline from time to time with your Shapers Square. It is easier to correct a small bobble along the way, than it is to re-template a whole side. PS— Establish yourself a “shaping method/process” and use that method on every blank. Consistency.

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Solid advice, thank you.

NO! You perfect the outline before you start cutting rail bands and you don’t touch the outline until the very final clean up with fine grit sandpaper.