paddling a 12'6 wood board .....

General Discussion
1

…into 1’ [occassionally random ribcage high "bombs] beachbreak closeouts

hahahah ouch

It was great to hop off my 5’8 fish onto something more than twice its size [!] today .

Kiricore’s 12’6 hollow wooden ‘skewer’ board .

…oh maaan , that thing is GUNNY!

I imagine , on a nice medium to high tide pointbreak , with evenly spaced chest high or so swells , this board would go unreal ! [as would most boards of course]

The sitting on the board , see a wave come , turn the board around , overcome inertia, and start gliding …all takes “just a wee bit longer” time than on a 5’8 , freefalling in the lip.

Angling in backhand was very interesting , on the two waves I DID manage to ride . Seeing 6’7 of board in front of me when I was lying down paddling was something different , I must say [especially since on my fish , my feet and shins are trailing in the water .]

The head down , double paddle seemed to work well for me . Once up and riding , the [board ?and?] fin hummed , and I could feel the vibrations through my feet . An interesting feeling .

Roy and others who make long hollow wooden boards …do YOUR boards do this , too ?

It was a real workout turning the board around to catch waves .

And finding the sweet spot for paddling took a while , with dumping beachbreaks and , I guess , maybe fairly low nose rocker for the size of the board , perhaps ?

The board is BEAUTIFUL . When Pascal and I saw the big feller walking down the beach with it , even with my stuffed eyesight , I said "that must be Shane " ! hahahaa

It would be fun to ride at Mettams , and I hope I can get some shots of you and the board over summer , Shane ?

… thanks again for the go on it , mate , it was fun !

cheers

ben

I nearly asked a kid down there with a watercamera today if he could get a shot of it . [But maybe , once I get paid , I can eventually do the shots with a good ol’ kodak waterproof disposable camera again !]

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Hi Chip, fin hum is fin hum, not board hum, but if you get it on a hollow wooden board it is amplified a lot by the board . We try to avoid hum as it means drag, but my 11’9" with bulb tipped keel has an extremely high pitched whine which shows up when it really starts moving out, it’s weird because it sounds like it’s coming from the surrounding atmosphere rather than the board.Could fix it but I kind of like it ! Sold the 11’9" board to a guy in Wellington, and the freight company dropped a pallet on the deck in the nose area, smashing the deck in and busting one rail. .

Watch out for the big board bug, it creeps up on you.

:slight_smile:

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No worries chip, good to have an early sway meeting, even if it was only knee high closeout shore breaks. yeah it goes good at methams which is a more fat, top to bottom, reef wave that pusses out and then reforms, I have only been out on the 12’6" three times. It takes a while to sort body postion out as it doesnt feel right to have all that board out in front. It paddles faster and catches waves better when you are laying at the back of the board.

It got one shoulder high peeler (at methams) yesterday that just walled up for ever and it was fun to just trim out and race, humming foot massage vibrating fin and all. Walk back and jam a turn, run foward and set the trim, long long boards are fun.

If i built it again i would change a few things, More rocker, wider nose, different fin and do a fin box. Each board i do a learn a bit more and try something different. Just finished ripping up all the scrap and I now have a nice pile of 2mm Kiri strips ready to do a compsand from. 6 foot quad or 6 foot MOTE…

Cheers

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“6 foot MOTE…”

my vote ! [but you already KNEW that , eh ?!]

did you see the three finned version on the sways homepage ?? … that looks kinda fun .

yeah , a wider , more rounded nose , like I commented this morning , with more nose rocker [for sure !] and that would be an even better board , your 12’6 . [I felt VERY wary of nose diving it this morning , in those shallow shallow “banks” !]

cheers

ben

…now we just need ‘lavz’ , hicksy , nathanL , sandgroper , bluejuice , matijn , ??gray murdoch?? , and AJ72 to join us for the complete sways i*** beach takeover …

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Sounds fun!

Makes me think. How many excellent early morning GREAT sways sessions have gone down on that beachie. SO much fun. I want to visit again… its so fun!

Cheers!

6

Rocker ?

If we call it bottom curve it sounds more desirable !

Here are some 12 footerish logs with bottom curve

                            <img src="http://www.olosurfer.com/AAAvatar.jpg" alt="" class="bb-image" />                                    <img src="http://www.olosurfer.com/Beast1.jpg" alt="" class="bb-image" />

:slight_smile:

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Pics ?

.

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Rocker ?

If we call it bottom curve it sounds more desirable !

Here are some 12 footerish logs with bottom curve

is this one of your team riders , working on his log and bottom curve , Tom ?

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Wrong colour, that’s an ASP judge.

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