..... Anyone here still do it ??
I always enjoyed watching it done on the old '60s [ ? and earlier?] mals ['longboards'] in ? Bruce Brown's ? classic old surf movies ...
A dying art , perhaps ? [but , hopefully , not completely DEAD ?! ]
....or...
is it still present / practiced in today's 'old mal' gatherings / contests ?
cheers !
ben
"...bring back the 'Quasimodo' ! ....."
[maybe I could try to talk Ross and other mal riders I know , into trying it , while I go pro them ....]
Aloha Chipper, Lion here loves to tube ride pararell stance on head high, thin lip reef waves down here in PR. Love it especially if it’s glassy (no wind) and clear water so I can see the reef as I glide by. Vehicle of choice: 9’ single fin round pin Junod log with a 9" Wayne Rich fin… No leash of course, just my above the knee trunks and fully waxed board!
It was all in the hips and knees. Round bottom boards did it better than flat.
Does doggie style count/ I read this over at SurferMag about surfers in Indonesia-
"watched a newbie slink into a setwave and then manage to get up to doggiestyle stance staring straight at the deck as a sweet kuta barrel completely swallowed him. then he stood wobbly up just in time for the spitting exit, and fell over.
he never even knew it but he was more deeply shacked than most get for years and years.
I don’t get barrels around here too often (and when I do, I’m 10 times out of 10 on a shortboard because I CANNOT take drops on a longboard to save my life), but I try to ride parallel stance a lot beacuse:
a) it looks cool
b) I wish I lived in the 60s
c) i feel stupid showing my ass to everyone on the beach when I try to stay in the curl
standing parallel allows more rail to rail power and less stern to bow control. Stand up sweepers switch to standard karate stance when the wave takes control. Riding heart first is wonderful if you are on the sweet spot.
The “Head” rode the tube parallel…there’s footage , but I can’t find any pics…
