Greetings all…we’re milling a paulownia tomentosa log into 2x4s for building a 5’6” hollow chambered kneeboard.
Taking things one step at a time; the first detail we’d like to clarify is the desired growth ring orientation of the end grain.
Is quarter sawn with growth rings intersecting the face of the board at a 60 to 90 degree angle best or
is plain sawn with rings that are generally 30 degrees or less to the face of the board how we should mill the 2x4s?
Many thanks in advance……Mick
I don’t think it would matter much if the log was quater sawn or plain sawn. Quater sawn generally warps less if that’s a concern. The face grain of plain sawn lumber usually has more character. You will get less wood out of the log if it is quater sawn.
Hey Mick Depending on the size of your log, it may make a difference which way you cut it, it terms of getting bow or spring in your wood but once you’ve jointed and thicknessed your timber it won’t matter. Paulownia is one of the most well behaved timbers you can find
cheers
You will get less usable lumber from a quarter sawn log and quarter sawn boards are more prone to splitting along the grain but that won’t matter if you are glassing the board.
You obviously get wider boards from a flat sawn log.
IMNSFHO Flatsawn Paulownia looks better than quarter sawn.
Probably the most important thing is stickering it up properly so it dries thoroughly and as flat as possible.
I’m jealous.
I want a conex box full of paulownia.
…you’ll get the best results just slabbing the log full width @ the thickess you want , with a horizontal bandsaw , and drying it like the above diagram…for a chambered board , 3" to 4" thick would probably work best…the widest board from the centre of the log will have a hollow tube running through it , that you’ll have to cut out after the wood is dried to no less than 15% moisture content…get a moisture metre . Curing time will depend on your local weather conditions…warmer the better.
The spacers (called stickers in that diagram) that are put between the slabs of paulownia when drying should be made of paulownia.
If you use another type of wood that contains sap it can leech into the paulownia and leave stain marks.
u
Man… this brings back so many memories of my fathers wood shop, he bought locally from the sawyers around southern New England, native white long leaf pine, red and white oak, all stickered up. Once a month he’d go through the stacks with his moisture meter looking for wood that was between 11 and 17 percent. I miss him and with every job I do, I know he is looking over my shoulder