PHOTO JOURNAL – BALSA COMPSAND TWINSER

Lamination: Vac bagged curved side of fins, solo. Finished the foil. Light and strong. 93 grams (3.2 oz) Ended up quite thick for fins. Had me worried. Hand lamination for outside glass. Cutlap on the bottom, freelap on the deck. I wanted a cut lap so when I did the fabric inlay I would have a nice bump to nest the razor blade while cutting. Thought this would get me closer to a thinner pin line. No luck there. Also hand lamination for the fins since it’s mixed. This was the best lamination that I have ever pulled off. I’ve done a few with polyester resin and never liked the panic attack. Epoxy is the way, 4 oz cloth doesn’t hurt either. At some point I had tape on the balsa and when I removed it ripped out a chunk on the deck side. During lamination I was able to fill this area with resin through the cloth while it was upside down. This RR is great material. No way that was happening with Poly.

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WM



More lam…

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More lam stuff…

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Fin lamination…

and handheld wire cutter…

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WM



cool widow maker

i know some things seem time consuming

but believe me a whole world of possiilities start to open up after you build a couple

Fabric inlay…

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WM


Pins: I tried to do the pin line with acrylic paint right on the lam. Bad idea. It bled under the tape. My buddy told me to do a “cheater coat” to bridge the weave, just as soon as the resin goes green (semi-hard), then hot coat, then gloss. So there would be 4 coats of resin: lam, cheater, hot coat, gloss. I was afraid of sanding through the pin line and wanted it under all that resin. Ouch. Any methods on pin lines? Oldy’s was just about the best I have seen btw. Well it bled, but lucky the tiger stripes are jiggity joggy, so it almost works.

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WM

Here’s the balsa rip out. The nice thing is you can’t tell.



I love it. I’ve been waiting on this thread for a while now!

hunter

Extras: Before the hot coat on the deck, I put in the vent (5/8" Vent, Retrofit, with Slot Screw, Chinook (#309)) $1.77

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/SurfSailcom/surfsailcom.html

and leash loop. The leash loops I prefer are the ones through the single fin box. So all you see is a string loop on the deck. I have a pet peeve with leash cups. Why don’t they fit a rail saver without a string? Well this is what I was after with my leash loop. Rail saver fits right in there, no string required. Thought the rope in the butt crack was an added bonus.

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WM



Tried to save the sanding dust for filler material in future ding repairs. Gotta sell all those old poly boards to finance the compsand quiver. With the wife and 2 boys just starting out, our family has some ding issues.

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WM

WOW that is one nice board good job

HotCoat: Failed to photo all the steps through the lamination process. Combination of my frustration after such a nice (for me) lam and camera issues. Ends up, I was very short on resin. I had ordered 3 Quart Kit Resin Research Epoxy 2000 w/ 2100 fast Hardener

http://fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Epoxy/epoxy.html#RR-Epoxy

$52.48

Bridging “cheater coat” was fine both sides, hot coat was ok both sides and setting fins went ok (although I’ll never do glass-on’s again), I failed gloss coat 101 big time. Had to borrow some RR from my buddy just to finish. I used gloves and wiped everything down with denatured achohol, but I guess I can only get my shed so clean, and maybe needed a brand new bucket for each gloss coat? I tried to cheat and get my pin line more consistent looking under the gloss coat. Didn’t think I’d be sanding anything again. The resin fisheyed all around the paint pin line, as I didn’t rub that down with the dna. Overall my gloss coat had (had) the look of tiny lint sprinkles all over it. Just looked poopie. Sanded it as little a possible, but pretty much removed all the resin that I just borrowed from my friend. Ouch. Nice swell on the way, will be a sand only board. Ouch. Waxed only the concaved areas on the deck with the thought of using a Polyurethane rattle can Clear Coat for a better finish. Just finished that last night and looked much better. Next time I’m looking at a Poly Gloss Coat. I have read both ways about poly and epoxy and their compatibility. Any gloss coat thoughts?

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WM



Pudding. Rode the board in waist high, walled, mush for the maiden voyage. Walking out with my hands on the deck, kinda jumping waves, I could feel the buoyancy. This board is very buoyant. Paddles great in blue water and can be tough to duckdive. Catches waves easily and planes out before you’re to your feet. Trippy. Got a few lucky open faces, small off the lips, cut backs. I could tell the board didn’t suck, but couldn’t tell if it went great or not. Not a table candidate. Then Saturday came. Real nice swell for our area. Maybe just over headhigh, honkin offshore winds, fairly strong sideshore current. Of course this was the only board I brought, my other board being a 7’-6" fun gun with a 2+1 set up (was my short board). Can be kinda stiff, be gets from A to B in a hurry. So now I’m on a Twinzer, super light weight (guess < 6 lbs.), with a big fat nose. Offshore winds and fat noses never seamed to like each other for me. Well, my twinzer passed with flying colors. I only slid one time when I tried to push it as hard as I could. Nice to know that’s available. Off the whitewater the board feels like it just took flight. I rode some big waves for me. I did eat it on the best wave I’ve seen in 6 months. When I ate it, it seemed I was taking off kinda sideways. The 2+1 can do that, you can rely on that big fin, especially backside. At first blush, not so with the twinzer, it wants a very dedicated bottom turn. When it got steep, it had to be disciplined. Wanted to climb (fat nose?), and squirrelly (wide plane shape? , twinzer?). I’ll figure this thing out, that’s what we do.

Nutshell:

Vacuum Compressor = Free (Dumpster Diver)

1# EPS Block = $36 Each board = $12

Resin Research Epoxy = $52.48

Additive F = $15.17 , Each board = $ 1.00 (?)

Fins = Free (Free Sample, Scrapes)

Fin Rope = $1.99

Vent = $1.77

Cloth = $31.40 (10 yds @ $3.14/yd)

HotWire = $1.50 (Broken guitar string)

$2.50 (Stainless steel fishing leader)

Bow = Free (Made from scrapes)

Vacuum Bag = $15.00 +/- (Tape and 6 mil Plastic)

Vacuum Gauge = $25.00 (Automotive store, could have done better)

Balsa = $44.00 (Free Shipping)

Glue = $8.00, Each board = $4.00 +/-

Consumables = $20.00 +/- (Used way too much tape, More sandpaper than normal for me, Gloves, Mixing cups, Chip brushes)

Time = Way more than I expected (I tend to stare).

Total = $150.00 for Board Materials, Say $125.00 Start-up Costs.

So boards should cost about $150.00 each or less.

Thanks Folks, I enjoy the design and building threads.

I’m ready for abuse now.

Widow_Maker



Thanks for the comments. I was cutting and pasting and posting like a mad man. Building a compsand can be a lot of work, but so can posting the thread about it. I wish my boss would stop yelling at me, it would make it go faster and I’d be back on task.

Please let me know your thoughts on any improvements to the system. I still plan on staring. I noticed I left out a couple of pics. I’ll get to those once my knuckles stop swelling. Questions, comments, anyone want to buy a 7-6 fun gun? ha.

WM

Board looks incredible! I think the bled pinlines match the fabric inlay well. Looks intentional :slight_smile:

As for wanting to ‘climb’… The rails look pretty round, yes? That would be my guess as to the reason.

Thanks for sharing!

Great board, photos, story…the whole package.

You’re already thinking like an addict. Don’t worry, your hands figure out little tricks all on their own with putting together those rails…it gets a lot easier. (Hint - Solarbo also has some 3/16" stock :slight_smile: As does Lonestar balsa)

Hunta, where’s yours? :wink:

Bravo!

Nice! I like the compsand fins!!! And yeah Hunter, where’s yours?

Cheers,

Rio

Right on, good to see you shaping again, haven’t seen a widowmaker board since you left WA State.

Great thread, thanks…

I like your style. No need to over think the setup at first. Just make one and you will know right away what is needed and what is not. Blending the top skin with the rails takes a little practice. It took me 3 tries to get it right.

You may want to give your board a little waterproof test now that you have had it in the H2O. After your next surf wipe your board down and leave it in the sun for a few minutes. Now start exploring every inch of that board looking for the little water spouts that may be lurking. Hopefully you will find nothing. Was not the case for my first one.

Good Luck

Christian

hey man

i find to free hand wih a posca just about the quickest neatest method for pinlines ive found

you can wipe it off with alcahol if you bugger it up

yous your finger along the rail as a guide and keep itmoving

its actually very easy

no taping or stuffing around

takes 5 minutes

do a few practise runs and you will get a feel for it