Pigment Color Panels

After meeting Greg and Jed Noll at the last auction in July, I really want to build a board and use pigment color panels. After laminating the board clear, applying a sanding coat and sanding the board, I want to tape off the stringer and tail block and apply a solid color coat. Here is my question, what type of PE resin do you use for the color panel (i.e. laminating, sanding or finish) and why? My intention is to gloss coat the board after the color work and pin lines are done. I didn’t find anything in the archives.

Please advise.

Mahalo,

D

I like to use Reichold Gloss resin.Scuff it up before glossing.

Like this, or more like solid, defined panels on white?

From the Zeph Carigg skunk works…


Aloha, UncleD. If you’re going to gloss after doing the color panels, they should be done with laminating resin. Otherwise, you’ll be obliged to sand them lightly so that gloss resin can stick to them.

UncleD

Here’s are several suggestions

First, color panels are much easier if done on the blank. Easier to spray or just squeegee on a thin coat of colored lam resin. This way, if the color isn’t quite what you wanted, you have the chance to augment it later.

Next, don’t know why you gloss coat over a colored finish coat. The sanding (or just roughing up) you will have to do on a late-stage color coat has the chance to go right through. Better to use that colored coat as the finish. If you use plain old lam resin with surfacing agent, pigment and a little extra catalyst, it’ll buff out just fine. A clear gloss coat over it would be needless extra work. As stated above, if you use lam resin, then you’ll have to finish coat it.

Next, think: where has the money been spent to make colored thin coats? It’s called paint, and the biggest market is auto paint. That’s where the manufacturers see the profits, that’s where the competition is, that’s where the R&D money goes, that’s where the best researched product will be. Use auto paint! Durable, glossy, no need to overcoat (unless you want to spray a clear coat over it, and buff that).

What not to do: never pigment a hot coat. Sanding WILL be uneven and it’ll look like crap. DAMHIK… IJK.

Oh yeah one more thing… epoxy paints as sold for boats. Should be made for a harsh marine environment, UV resistant, heat tolerant, etc.

after that, check my post about HWS questions… need a line on some light kevlar or carbon … Fiberglass Hawaii is out of stock on the light stuff and does not intend to re-stock it.

Wow! that looks great. Can’t figure out how it’s done. Maybe a foam stain on the deck and then a blue tint for the bottom and cut lap? I would love to do that on my next board.

Quote:

Wow! that looks great. Can’t figure out how it’s done. Maybe a foam stain on the deck and then a blue tint for the bottom and cut lap? I would love to do that on my next board.

no, the deck color is definitely in glass (see how it wraps the rails). my guess is blue tint bottom, multi-colored tint deck keeping the colors separate with the shoelace method from a mexican blanket pour.

Wow thanks guys for all the hints. Benny, that board to totally sick. I want to glass work like that someday soon!

Mahalo,

D

Hey Honolulu,

I used to shy away from car paints because of the nasty solvents, but check this out…

http://www.autoaircolors.com/

All water-based, and supposedly lightfast.

JSS