resin swirls here i come!!!
so i was wondering what brand/type/size acrylic (or other) markers you guys preferred for pin lines?
and what brand/type/width tape you used for them as well.
i owe the vast majority of my current ability to this site and i plan on sucking the blood from you all for a long time to come too!!!
thanks
sharpie poster paint pens
zig archival ink pens
liquitex high-viscosity acrylic (straight from the tube)
tape — whatever.
i see where the sharpie paint pens are waterbased. is that ok??? i plan on putting the pin line under the hotcoat, but want that solid, sharp looking line. any further recommendations?
appreciate it.
OVER hotcoat. UNDER gloss.
three times with the sharpie.
pull tape.
seal with a clear acrylic spray.
gloss.
well sir, i must say you just gave me some education.
now i wrote before about a gloss coat, and people were sayin to get the buffer out and get at it.
you are saying to add another layer of resin for a gloss coat. can you give me the run down of how you do your gloss coat?
i appreciate your time and effort with a hack like me…
and what acrylic spray do you use?
epoxy or polyester resin? – do your lam. then hotcoat. sand your hotcoat. lay down your pinlines. lay down your gloss coat. sand. polish.
any ol’ clear acrylic spray will do. although, the name brands really are better than the WalMart variety. this spray is just to keep the pinlines from bleeding under the gloss coat.
gotcha, i just dont understand what a gloss coat is. i use resin research epoxy. to get the shine so far, i just do a hotcoat mixture with a little more addative F. then i spread it on and squeegie it off as much as i can to fill in the scratches. it looks ok, but certainly not that super gloss that i sure would like to have.
thanks again.
a gloss coat is an entirely separate coat of resin that goes on over the hotcoat (and any pinlines). it’s harder to get a good gloss with epoxy than it was poly…but i’m in the same boat, so here’s how i do things…
make sure the hotcoat is sanded flat.
measure out my resin (no hardener) and nuke it for about 10 seconds – just enough so it gets liquid watery.
mix up RR epoxy + Additive F + a splash of denatured alcohol.
brush it on, lengthwise – it’s impossible to get a good gloss with a squeegee.
brush it out, rail to rail, wiping excess resin out of the brush on the edge of the bucket with each pass.
one final pass, nose to tail only, wiping the excess resin off on the edge of the bucket after each pass.
walk away – i can’t stress the importance of this one enough! the gloss will self-level if it’s in a place with no airflow. that means no fans, no a/c, and don’t even walk by it until the resin is set.
if it’s perfectly flat, you’re the luckiest person on the face of the planet. but you probably aren’t the luckiest person on the planet, so i’m guessing that it won’t be. in that case, you’ll need to sand. start at the highest grit that will remove any imperfections, and take it all the way up to at least 1000# (i’ll take it all the way up to 1600#).
now it’s time to polish. i like to wait a day or two so it’s fully cured before polishing. hit it with a fine cutting compound, and then some shurlustre or finnesse-it or whatever will put that liquid-wet finish back on your board. remember how shiny it looked after the gloss coat, but before you started sanding? it will never look that good again…but with a little patience, and a lot of elbow grease, you can get it close.
go nuts…
cant tell you how much i appreciate it.
i just finished making my next blank and will start blastin some foam tomorow night, so in a few weeks ill check back in and let you know how shiny it is.
mirror, mirror, on the wall…aj…
Just a little heads up here…
Don’t use the Krylon ‘triple thick’ glaze… it causes a lot of cratering and grief with epoxy glosscoats.
Soulstice might know… but after my 2 disasters with the triple thick, I checked it out, and it doesn’t actually say acrylic anywhere on the can. Maybe there is an acrylic triple thick out there; I don’t know.
I used it to put a gloss over paint, on my 2nd board I think it was, cause it covers up well(triple thick eh!), so I figured with paintpen pins…Why not… and then used it to cover some pinlines, and glossed over that(with RR epoxy). Not good. Check the spray can and make sure that it says acrylic somewhere… and do a test!! A lot easier than having to sand off the gloss coat completely.
I do all my pinlines now with artists acrylic a la Harbour method. Works for me.
Other than that, I do it pretty much as Soulstice does it.
Posca acryic paint pens, too, if you can get them. Mike
i have never used the triple thick myself…but heard it was good. i guess it should be reserved for a quickie finish rather than sealing before gloss, though. i think i’ve got Krylon high-gloss clear acrylic spray in the garage. not really sure, though. i just use it for an easy gloss finish after repairs. for pinlines, i also use the Harbour method (well, Waterman’s Guild, really). but i swear by high-viscosity acrylic straight from the tube for major pinlines. if i have more abstract pinlining on the deck (outside of just covering up the lap lines plus a little flare), i use sharpie paint pens because they go on so flat and easy. but for real pins, i like to feel just a little bump. it’s definitely liquitex pinlining for me.
Howzit soulstice, I have used the triple thick a lot but only on repair work. It likes to puddle if you don't move the can around. One thing I always noticed when laminating over acrylic is the resin seem to get a thick feel to it and I believe it's the resin disolving the acrylic. Actually laquer works best as a gloss fixer. Spray on a layer and let it dry completely then rough it with some 400 and reapply, do this a few times and you can actually rub it out but use your hands not a machine to rub out. Aloha,Kokua
Hey Soulstice,
do you seal your liquitex pinlines with acrylic as well ?
howzit, kokua. good tip on the lacquer. but, do you think glossing with epoxy would have the same difficulties over acrylic? the mekp in poly will eat through just about anything…but i figure epoxy would be pretty mellow in comparison?
howzit, vern. no need to seal a liquitex pin. just take down any high spots, rough it up with some used 220#, and gloss away.
Howzit soulstice,Really can’t say since I don’t do epoxy and any board that I do that doesn’t get a gloss on I paint the pinline on the foam. That would work with epoxy. When it comes to pinlines I never knock them down with any abrasive, the only thing is to make sure there’s no edge for the gloss resin to catch on and restrict the flow. When it comes to pigment pins, a lot of us older long time guys lay down the gloss coat within about 15 minutes after the pin has kicked and it works even with the wax in the pin resin they adhere to each other. Some what of a lost art since there’s not as many pigment pins these days.Aloha,Kokua
Howzit soulstice, Don’t think it’s the mekp but the styrene in the resin since it’s a resin thinner.Aloha,Kokua
yes, of course, sorry…i was thinking styrene…and somehow MEKP came out.
brain fart.