Pin lines and masking tapes...Whats the deal??

I’m thinking of having a go at resin pin-lining on an old mal to give it some life. I’ve sanded the heavy gloss coat away, back to the glass layer (to where I can see the weave and not further) and am gonna brush on a layer of resin/pigment to give it a flat even colour (possibly red or green). I also want to have a go at airbrushing or maybe even resin pinlies and a bit of line art around the concave!!

I’ve been lookin around for narrow pin-line masking tape and found this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320056454844&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr12_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=320059745449&itemcount=12&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Any thoughts on it…Maybe some of you guys had seen it or used it before???

Haven’t seen that before but it looks like it would work a treat, as taping up resin pins can be really time-consuming. It depends on the quality of the tape though, lower-quality masking tapes tend to melt under the resin and it can be a really heartbreaking experience to spend an hour taping up pinlines only to have it all come up a sticky, runny mess due to bleeding tape, don’t ask me how I know…

Howzit Jedi, That tape has been around for years but you still have to lay it down right so the lines don’t wobble. Myself and most vetern glassers didn’t use it cause we felt it was for begiiners(we were pretty egoed out about doing pinlines). Another thing is you said you sanded down to the weave which is going to make it easier for your pinlines to want to bleed since they will get into the weave. Just make sure your tape is down really good to prevent this from happening. If you do get some bleedage you can use a razor blade to remove the bleeds.Aloha,Kokua

Got this site from someone else on Sways. Haven’t tried it yet but it looks good. Just requested a free sample so I’ll try it out when I get it. It looks like it could have some limitations. Can’t do anything too creative or crazy.

http://finessepinstriping.com/striper_order.asp

i’ve used that stuff for double-pins (one thicker, one thinner). it’s good stuff, but the wider tapes can be a bit tough to bend smoothly around curves. nowadays, i just lay masking tape and cut it with a razor.

Thanks guys,

Kiaora acolyte_of_trim

I’ll be doing it on a cheap old dinged up board of mine, which i’m using as a test bed for a few techniques and materials i’ll be using on my first ever solo board. I’ll buy some and post a follow on of this thread and let you know how it goes. Is there a brand of thin lining tape out there that doesn’t mel and go sticky under resin… I’ve used the 3M blue stuff before but that really expensive!!! I guess you get what you pay for??

Aloha kokua

As a 30yrold grom when it comes to the board building world, I’ll take all the help I can get!!! I’ll give it a try and hopefully it’ll be a success. I’ve been practicing with a pinlining brush for a while now when it comes to painting lines, but resin’s a whole different ballgame. As for the sandback and restore project. I’ll coat the board with a heavily pigmented (bright red) skin of sanding resin. Take it back a touch til its smooth and without brushlines. And then mask up my pin design and (this is the decision yet to be made) then either paint on a white pigmented resin mix, or airbrush on a few coats of white? Then gloss the lot with a polish!!!

My aim is to practice the brushing on and glossing mainly, but to make my experiment look good at the same time. Hopefully have a solid red board, with a white pin line design. I don’t mind if theres a ridge or its bumpy where the lines are either!!!

Am I nuts??? I dunno :slight_smile:

PS, Hope its cranking wherever you are. Its gone a bit cold and wind in Somerset now…No waves on the horizon for while…Glad the Eddies on the horizon??

How You Doin? Rachel

Thanks! I just filled in the request for a free sample from them also. I have to admit, that stuff looks the bomb… Just what I’ve been lookin for. I reckon with enough practice you’d come up with some pretty awesome designs in no time at all. Thanks again…xxx

Easy soulstice

Yeah, I had a go at taping two scalpel blades to varying thicknesses of lollipop sticks, to make a parralel double blade scalpel. It worked fine till it went blunt and I had to take them off and tape a new pair on again. I spend most evenings with my Swann-Morten scalpel, cutting out frisket film for my airbrushing. So I’m pretty nifty with a scalpel. How deep can you cut into an unglassed blank through masking tape???

I’ve often wondered if you could shape a blank ready for glassin, and then with a scalpel, carve out some kind of design in the foam. Then pour in some coloured resin really carefully, pooling it up to edges, let it set and then just glass as normal??? Anyone ever seen this done???

3M makes it in the Fine Line series of tape. You can get it up to 1 inch in width with up to 8 segments to pull…thats 1/8 inch for the brain dead. Kind of expensive but if you want perfect multiple pins its a no brain way to go…cheater, cheater, cheater…real men put pins down in the dark…blind folded…no mask, no gloves, in 40 degree, rainy weather…hell no catalyst… cheater, cheater, cheater.

Resinhead…the cheater.

Quote:

Yeah, I had a go at taping two scalpel blades to varying thicknesses of lollipop sticks, to make a parralel double blade scalpel. It worked fine till it went blunt and I had to take them off and tape a new pair on again. I spend most evenings with my Swann-Morten scalpel, cutting out frisket film for my airbrushing. So I’m pretty nifty with a scalpel. How deep can you cut into an unglassed blank through masking tape???

i do my pinlines over the hotcoat. but i use the same tool to cut tape for a perfect cutlap. cutting slightly into the foam is no concern at all. rather than grind the first lap flush, i push it down into the foam…preserves the color, and makes for a beautiful transition for subsequent layers of glass. having a little cut in the foam at the lap line makes pushing down perfectly flat. as for cutting too deep…all you have to do is pay some attention…besides, how much blade do you really need sticking out past the end of the block??