OK guys, I’ve hotcoated my cutlapped single sided resin tint job. My best lamination (without incident)to date. Do I sand my hotcoat, apply my resin pins and then gloss? I’m uncertain about whether to use sanding or lam resin for pinlines if I’m coming back over with a gloss coat. Mil Gracias, tom http://www.thirdcoastsurf.com
Tom, I have done it many ways. Laminating resins works becuase you don’t need to do any prep. However, I have had good results by using a hot coat resin. You can mix your own by adding the surfacing agent in youself. You can make a real runny batch by adding a bit of styrene to it(gloss coat ingredient). You say, "But then I have to rough it up a bit don’t I?’ Yes, if you use the right kind of taping method(two stips of tape on the outside of the line) leave in on. Take a rag and a miniscule amount of acetone(miniscule) and rub it once down the rail. The best way that worked for me was to take 400 or 600 grit peice of damp sand paper and lightly rubbed the line never concentrating too much in one area. You can use other chems to rid the line of the surfacing gloss residue. The reason I used styrene in the resin is becuase I wanted the thinnest possible pin line so when I sanded my hot coat I wouldn’ touch the pin line. Come on evryone…shoot out your methods… Hey Tom, give me a good deal on your planer. I need one more than Sarahs dad!
OK guys, I’ve hotcoated my cutlapped single sided resin tint job. My best > lamination (without incident)to date. Do I sand my hotcoat, apply my resin > pins and then gloss? I’m uncertain about whether to use sanding or lam > resin for pinlines if I’m coming back over with a gloss coat.>>> Mil Gracias, tom …Wish I couldbe there to show you,it’s not as hard as time consuming.If you use resin use hotcoating resin/pull tape,and with a fine body file trim the edges.Then sand the line(s) with 220 or 320 w/d(lightly!!!)then gloss.Orrrrr you can use paint.Herb.
You want to use glossing resin for pinlines. Timing on pulling the tape is The most important factor. aloha
You want to use glossing resin for pinlines. Timing on pulling the tape is > The most important factor.>>> aloha Appreciate all the replies, got my question answered. Now if it will only dry up a bit so I CAN gloss.
Appreciate all the replies, got my question answered. Now if it will only > dry up a bit so I CAN gloss. Here’s the real skinny on the pinlines, before dropping any tape on the board, make sure the sanded area under the lines in sanded with at least #220. The cleaner the suface, the less you’ll need to clean up after pulling up the tape. After laying down the tape to the width you like, rub it down firmly with a tongue depressor. Never use straight laminating resin!!! the gloss will etch into it and cause it to bleed and you don’t need that! Always use a waxed resin for pins, hot coat or gloss, doesn’t matter. After brushing on the resin, 2 coats wet, brush to desired thickness, too thin will strip away the wax and it won’t cure properly.I keep my cup of resin and watch for signs of gel-ing, at the first hint of set-up, it will go faster in the cup than on the board. Pull the inside tape first, then the outside tape, if you have a residue of fuzziness on the line edge, take a piece of #100-220, fold it over the edge of a razor blade and slide it along the edge of the pin and erase any fuzz there may be. I never thin out my resin as it makes it bleed even more, I like to have my colors mixed in advance so that the styrene has had a chance to evaporate out and thicken up some. This way the resin has less creep and will stay put. There aren’t many resin pinliner left, we are a dying breed. Jim
Here’s the real skinny on the pinlines, before dropping any tape on the > board, make sure the sanded area under the lines in sanded with at least > #220. The cleaner the suface, the less you’ll need to clean up after > pulling up the tape. After laying down the tape to the width you like, rub > it down firmly with a tongue depressor. Never use straight laminating > resin!!! the gloss will etch into it and cause it to bleed and you don’t > need that! Always use a waxed resin for pins, hot coat or gloss, doesn’t > matter. After brushing on the resin, 2 coats wet, brush to desired > thickness, too thin will strip away the wax and it won’t cure properly.I > keep my cup of resin and watch for signs of gel-ing, at the first hint of > set-up, it will go faster in the cup than on the board. Pull the inside > tape first, then the outside tape, if you have a residue of fuzziness on > the line edge, take a piece of #100-220, fold it over the edge of a razor > blade and slide it along the edge of the pin and erase any fuzz there may > be. I never thin out my resin as it makes it bleed even more, I like to > have my colors mixed in advance so that the styrene has had a chance to > evaporate out and thicken up some. This way the resin has less creep and > will stay put. There aren’t many resin pinliner left, we are a dying > breed. Jim Thanks for clearing the up. I almost had it. Very rarely do I do resin pin lining as painting them works…decently. Resin you do get that old school and solid look, plus less fading. Thanks again. Now, where is this pin-lining guidde line maker that everyone keeps talking about. Shapers are interested in that tool for bevel guide lines.