So if you want to use pinstripe tape, lay it on over your lam coat? Then hotcoat as usual? Also, how do you get pinstripe tape to start at the nose, let’s say using 1/8" tape and as you go down each side get it closer to 1/16", then near the tail it goes back to 1/8"?? Special tape for this??
One more question, what do you use for a pencil color on each side of the stringer. Meaning, a red tint board, white deck, has real fine red lines on each side of the stringer. The one I saw didn’t look like it was done with a colored pencil because there was ever slight bleeding down each side and there was no indentation from a pencil tip. Maybe a very fine Posca? I’m talking REAL fine.
actualy I put the pin stripe over the hot coat after I have sanded the board then I do a gloss coat other wise I use a paint pen and do speed finish over it. I didn’t understand if your talking about cheeter tape wide enough to cover your cut lap? good luck.
Most guys use standard 3/4" masking tape, and taper whatever way you want. Not sure what you mean by 1/8", then 1/16", except for taper width of pinstripe.
On each side of the stringer is colored glue. To glue the blank to the stringer.
You can order blanks with wood and colored glue or paper, with colored glue. Even dif colored paper.
Yes, taper width. Down a side rail - 1/8" wide tapering to 1/16" at the middle, back to 1/8" near the tail. Saw it on the new Brom “Stepchild.” Anyone seen this board? The nose looks kinda like a snow shovel!
If laying down tape on top of hot coat, won’t you get resin swelling on the tape with a gloss coat?
The tape is for guiding the resin color you add between the tape, then you pull the tape off, let resin cure, sand lightly, then seal coat or gloss coat.
Oh, you thought the tape was left there for the color? No don’t.
Like I said, most everyone uses 3/4" tape, and the distance between the two pieces can vary …or not, any distance you’d like.
Color bands are a no no. They look cheap, like a surftech, don’t cover, very uneven. Stick with pinstripes from 1/16th to 1/8th. If you need more coverage, go with double or triple pinstripes.
If so, apply the tape over a sanded hotcoat, the area sanded to 320 paper. Then it must be sealed with some acrylic sealer, then lightly feathered, then glossed.
If someone is glossing over a colored tape it is a new one to me.A good pinline artist can lay super clean lines that have perfect edges and may look like tape.I work in resin because I can clean all the fuzz of the edge.I have also seen some perfect pinline work done by airbrushing with acrylic.The tape off methods are the same for both.Pinline taping is almost an art form in itself,I have done thousands of them and find that if I dont do it every day my lines are not "Cleanlines: any more.Don’t be too hard on yourself. RB
thats colored glue on the sides of the stringer -Hector at the Clark Foam in florida said thats what they call T-band and it costs about $2.50 extra a blank. I had thought T-band was a triple laminated single stringer made of wood.
Just a note on a recent method I found for painting pinlines. After they are taped off, take a tube of Liquitex Acrylic ( it has the consistancy of paste), set the opened top of the tube where the paint comes out against the tape. What the heck do you call that part of a tube of paint? Anyway, move the tube down the taped off line, sqeezing lightly as you go. The thick paint will fill in between the tape and give you a layer exactly the thickness of the tape. Pull the tape after about 5 minutes, and let it dry completely. The lines will be opaque and can be lightly sanded if necessary. No spray or clean up of spray guns. Doug
There is a narrow plastic tape that is used to “pinstripe” cars and boats. If that’s what you mean, I wouldn’t advise it. If you gloss over it after applying it to your sanded hotcoat, it might peel off. The guys here are describing laying two strips of masking tape and painting colored resin or acrylic in between. Some of the real pinstripe artists who do custom bikes and cars can actually do it freehand. Von Dutch website says he was the original freehand pinstripe guy…
i have always found that pin lines are easiest when you use the wide tipped posca pens. colored resin is good too but you have to pull the tape at just the right time. wait too long and the tape can get stuck under the resin, pull too early and the resin can run. i think that using acrylic paint is nice too but then you have to sand usually (well i always have had to) to get the paint smooth and even. taping off the lines is DEFIANTLY the hardest part of pin lining but practice makes perfect.
pin line on a sanded hot coat like someone had said earlier then gloss over. lining on the lam will leave a weird texture under the line from the cloth and it doesnt look very clean. good luck
I just did a few today, here’s my newest and bestest method…
I’ve been using the pinlining tape from finessepinstriping for a few years. I LOVE that stuff! Great for getting nice smooth, even lines, and also great for doing freehand stuff. Until now I’ve been going over it with acrylic paint pens, which is fine, but seemed to lack depth.
I was trying to learn how to freehand pinstripe, but moved on to other projects after about 3000 practice strokes. The upshot was it left me with a few nice pinstriping brushes and some cans of “one-shot” lettering enamel. I’ve done two boards now with my Mack squirrel brushes, and all I can say is wow. Super color and coverage, way better than the acrylic paint pens… A little more prep, but worth it. Just paint on the oneshot with the finesse tape to guide it, and the only limitation is the steadiness of your hand putting down the tape. Peter St. Pierre at Moonlight glassing says Oneshot is safe to gloss over with poly, that’s how he does his freehand stuff.
Oh, and I always do it over sanded hotcoat. Can’t even imagine trying to pinline over lam coat.
Shwuz, can you tell me what “Oneshot” exactly is? I had been thinking about using enamel paints but most of them are solvent based and I was fearing that styrene would dissolve them.
By the way, any of you has been working with this?
Most art supply stores online seem to have it. Used to be a lead-based enamel, but not anymore. Don’t know what the chemical formulation is exactly. Long-wearing for sign painting. Like I said, the good pinliner at moonlight uses it for his freehand pinstripes and says they gloss right over it. Just make sure it’s totally dry first.
I just did a pinstripe over my lam coat and it bleeded a lot… I’ll have to cover it up after hotcoat…
But then how do you seal them properly? I tend to sand the pinstripes away when I sand the gloss coat…
Greg, you do poxy on 'ps right?
Posca’s suck eggs… at least with poxy…
just sand the hotcoat and do a polyester pinline, when its good and hard give it a rub with some 120 grit and wipe any residue off with some acetone, gloss coat as per usual.
