Hey all, im a first time shaper and im almost readt to do the bottom lams. ive noticed a slight defect in my plain shape and thought id ask you guys if u have any ideas to rectify it before i make it worse. im also not sure if its a trick on my eyes. cheers tom
Here’s a bit of advice that’s helped me over the years. “If you can see something wrong, go after it”. Don’t give up and hit another spot ‘just because’. Be purposeful in your entire approach; “do I need to sand right here?” “why?”. See it, shape it. One last broad concept: instead of seeing a lot of things one way, see one thing a lot of different ways… Look at your shape from a lot of different angles, change the light, change the background, go for a walk and come back fresh. Try it, it works… Relax. Smile. Good Luck.
Plus One, I can really relate to what you have said. Probably the most insightful comments I have read to this great process. Process is hard to put into words.
funny… i remember going after bumps then i had two …so i would go after the two bumps and get 4, once you get enough bumps next to each other they kinda start to blend ,but once you get to the stringer itll be straight… regards BERT
I am in the process of tutoring an adult in shaping. I have made him calipers, perfectly clean templates, showed him how to cut out and clean up to the pencil line. His last attempt had several foo-foo’s in the outline that were under the line by a 1/4", but for less than a foot. I asked him how he got so far away from the shape, “I don’t know”? Before going one step futher, the planshape HAS to be accurate, otherwise it throws ALL the other sightings you do on that board off, nothing will look right!
Since I started using the planer to clean up the outline as per JP, my planshapes have been very nice and smooth. I put a coupla navigation marks just inside the the line so I know NOT to go any further than that. I always leave an 1/8" on each side for shaping loss and this works for me. Some might require more. I agree with P.O.S., Only shape it if it needs it, walk away and come back. Also take it outside in the sun and look at it from different angles. I had a board that had an overshape spot on the deckside of the tail that I didn’t see until I took it out side! A smooth outline is the key to those beautiful rail curves. Krokus
i think people either have the eye…or don’t. i’ll bet most experienced shapers could watch someone that first time and be able to tell pretty quick whether they have it or not. just in the way they approach the job, handle the tools, use their eyes.
First you have to have a smooth curve to your template pattern. I’ve found that tracing the template on the top and the bottom of the board gives me a reference when squaring up my outline. They are not exactly the same because of the rocker curve in the bottom but better than I can do by eyeballing it. Squaring the edges after cutting is an important step in the process. After that, I do my bottom rail first, then turn down the deck and try to blend them together at the final apex without cutting in to the outline shape.
If you’re talking about what will later become rails, make yourself a 90 degree tool with two pieces of smooth wood dovetailed together and glue some sand paper to that. It’ll help square it off. All the other advice here is good too.
Its all in the starting cut.I like to use a sharp handsaw with a coat of carwax for glide.Cut the tail of the blank off and start your cut from the tail holding the saw in a vertical position close to 90degrees.Go easy…once the blade gets started it will stay upright in the kerf for the whole cut.Its one long fluid motion.True it up with the planer…the blank should be bottom up with a weight to hold in place.When using the handsaw don’t snap the scrap foam bone at the cut…let it go.If you snap it you lose the kerf that holds the saw vertical.Skilsaws are great but maybe a bit gnarly for beginners.
Great advice! I hold the scrap with my free hand behind the cut to keep it from snapping off on thin cuts close to the edge. I rough the outline with the sureform to get the gnarly humps down, about 1/8" outside the "line. Then I put the blank upright and wedge it in the racks using a level on the bottom to get it vertical 90 degrees. I then make extremely small cuts with the planer flat on the topside rail from end to end. You will be amazed how nice the bumps come out and the fine curve emerges. Check it to the bottom with your square…I usually just eyeball it and it comes out fine. When using a new template I will trace my new trimmed curve on some heavy paper and use that for the flip side…alll the humps are already gone and the curve is SHWEEEET! Krokus