“I’ve been working with a variation of chines I call “Split Vee” - Fucken hard to explain, maybe similar to a Tri - plane hull, but the middle panel is single to double concave and the vee line is curved along the rail about 3 - 4 inches in, rather than a straight line. I like to believe it makes it easier to break the line the board is following and go into a turn at high speed. The chine line is like vee under the front foot but on the side of the board that is in the water when board’s on a rail! Make sense?” Very interesting- I’ve drawn this out many times over the years myself without having one shaped. It seams like it might allow banking at retained high speeds. Anyone else try this out?
Thats “Split Vee” tubedog. Go on try it out, don’t be chicken! A tip - Do the concave before you do the chines, tape up the hard edge line, (Yes with masking tape, trust a sprayer to come up with it!) cut concave, then tape other side of line(I.e. inside the concave) then shape the chine. The tape line acts to give you a defined edge to your chine line in the same way a stringer helps to make a straight vee line in the middle. I fade my chines out before the fins.its time consuming and can make for sketchy performance in big waves. You can just see what i’m saying on a board on the website, the red shortboard with “34” spray. Good luck. Josh http://www.speedneedle.com.au
Thats “Split Vee” tubedog. Go on try it out, don’t be chicken! A tip - Do the concave before you do the chines, tape up the hard edge line, (Yes with masking tape, trust a sprayer to come up with it!) cut concave, then tape other side of line(I.e. inside the concave) then shape the chine. The tape line acts to give you a defined edge to your chine line in the same way a stringer helps to make a straight vee line in the middle. I fade my chines out before the fins.its time consuming and can make for sketchy performance in big waves. You can just see what i’m saying on a board on the website, the red shortboard with “34” spray. Good luck. Josh http://www.speedneedle.com.au
Don’t want to start a flaming war but Wilderness has been making pretty much the same design for years in stubby and pointy outlines. Keep the bottom of the chine as sharp as you can…they rip
Don’t want to start a flaming war but Wilderness has been making pretty much the same design for years in stubby and pointy outlines. Keep the bottom of the chine as sharp as you can…they rip
Lee V. is right: “Keep the bottom of the chine as sharp as you can… they rip” The strakes on this triplanes chines have vinyl resin edges. They
re so sharp that I`ve cut my fingers on them when inadvertantly rubbed across… but ultra clean/quick water release! http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/523.html
Lee V. is right: “Keep the bottom of the chine as sharp as you can… they rip” The strakes on this triplanes chines have vinyl resin edges. They
re so sharp that I`ve cut my fingers on them when inadvertantly rubbed across… but ultra clean/quick water release! http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/523.html
I’m glad to strike up some interest in a design I’ve had faith in despite being cussed out by any sander who has to deal with It!!! Wait til they face what i’ve got in mind next ha ha!!! http://www.speedneedle.com.au
I’m glad to strike up some interest in a design I’ve had faith in despite being cussed out by any sander who has to deal with It!!! Wait til they face what i’ve got in mind next ha ha!!! http://www.speedneedle.com.au