I did up a bottom lam last night (old style pu/pe) and got some pooling on the concave in the tail (i was lucky enough to get the laps down before it gelled, i didn’t have time to do the last pass over the bottom). It is opaque yellow and i’m worried that I’ll get a splochy finished product if i don’t do something, but am also worried about sanding the lam coat for the sake of the glass and the sandpaper and making it look even worse. Should I just hot coat and then even it up or go at it with some sandpaper to try and level it out.
also on basting. will basting the cutlap with clear resin, does that affect the color saturation if i want to do an acid wash or swirl on the deck because the color does not get to the foam? or will the color get trapped by the glass and look okay?
I can’t answer your basting question, but I’ll take a stab at your pooling pe-resin. Bummer about that, as that can be a pain in the neck! Sanding lam resin is of course a sticky messy affair. I would suggest hotcoating before sanding for two reasons. The sanding resin will help protect surrounding glass during the sanding process, and it will also make it easier to sand the lam resin. For whatever reason, painting sanding resin on top of lam resin seems to minimize gumming up of the sandpaper, even when you’re down in the lam resin layer. When you’re sanding, think of it as reshaping the concave you originally put in. Go slow after you get down a ways, and just stop as soon as you see the cloth at all. Not sure what kind of board you’re making, but you might want to put an extra layer of glass on the tail if you hit the glass too badly. Think of it as either a foot patch or reinforcement for your fins.
Good luck! Post pics if you can.
thanks for the tip, i had pretty much made up my mind that hotcoating and sanding would be my course of action. it is an 8’ minilog/noserider for me/my wife to share. I’ll post pics tomorrow after i get the camera charged up.
oh, and nice name.
Sounds like a great board! Look forward to pictures. And nice name, yourself. I think half the people on this forum are named Ben!
Basting the cut lap will for sure affect the way color will go down on the deck of your board, it wont take at all where the baste is. Learned that one the hard way… When you do your deck color it will pretty much bridge the cut lap to the deck. Hope that makes sense.
I don’t want to appear to be “outside the box” here, but; When I am laying up an opaque bottom lapped over onto a tinted deck; I do the deck first. I usually do a free-lapped deck, tinted and cut only to the edge of the rail. One layer. Knock the cut edge down with sandpaper and a block, file or die grinder. Then do my opaue bottom overlapped onto the deck with a cut-line. I finish it off by basting the lap on the deck and then add a final freelapped layer of cloth to the deck. I usually do a 6oz. deck, 6 oz. bottom and a final 4 oz. on the deck(lapped free onto the bottm. After hot coat the 4oz. final gives me something to sand into with no burn-thrus into my tint or opaque. It may be a little late for you to use this method on your current board, but is something to keep in mind for the next one. It has worked well for me and the end result is colors that are true and no burn-thrus. Lowel
here are some pictures of the board, lets see if this works